Sunday, February 22, 2009

TraiT's Top Picks From Fall 09 New York Fashion

Matthew Williamson
In my opinion, the best collection from his own label. Shaking Emilio Pucci off his shoulders proves to be an advantage for the man. His prints are as amazing as always, but what made this collection special and stand out as compared to those from his archives is that this collection seems very coherent. Each pieces grows and evolves from the previous one, really do show an elegant flow.
The Mulleavy sisters aren't the only designers to sick firmly with their aesthetics, take a look at what Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzibrough brought to the table. For Preen, it's about the tailoring and placement of fabrics. Maybe some prints, maybe some embellishments, but it's the loose silhouette when they first started out in London 13 seasons ago, to today's emphasis on swirly fabric placements that kept their works locked in people's minds.
This season, Justin and Thea exaggerates last season's closing element of a slight bondage mixed with the right amount of softness. But what truly interests me would have to be the closing of the show. Out came dresses that seems to be an animated version of the designer duo's aesthetics in cherry poppy colours that seems to be a statement of optimism, something that most designers in New York missed this season, which is rather important in present time.

Erin Fetherston
Besides from Coke Light, Erin Fetherston might just be another solution for the ease and lightness that I crave whenever I'm dealing with stress. Cheesy it might sound, but it's the perfect timing for me now, and I'm caring no lesser. How delightful it is to see the always girly and dreamy collections from Fetherston?!
After having a very negative review for her previous collection(exclude me please), Erin stuffed their faulty mouth this time with a collection that looks like Luella Bartley's Fall 08 show, but with Erin's own angelic touch to it. Dolly playfulness, yet a little witch spunk.
When it comes to Andreas Melbostad's works, I've always been amazed by how wearable they look, even if they're heavily rock/biker influenced. Some designers might get too costume-looking, while some might just overlap something that had been done somewhere else.
Andreas's silhouette also seems to be getting tighter and tighter each time round, which really presents his attention to the prints this season really well.

Ohne Titel
With more and more designers using drapes as their signature, indie or commercial, collections might seem repetitive and old. But the draping technique used by Alexa Adams and Flora Gill certainly wouldn't fall into that context. Alexa and Flora paid much attention to the textures as well. The last three looks that I've picked out had the right embodiment of hard textures with soft layer draping that few designers are able to achieve.

Friday, February 13, 2009

AnOther Shows Them Off

Yes, my dear Louise Goldin. You've proven to the world that you can do as amazing to your usual works when it comes to gowns.

Kudoos to AnOther magazine for using, aside from Goldin, Peter Pilotto, Louise Goldin, Sandra Backlund, Craig Lawrence and Mary Katrantzou, who all made exclusive dresses just for the issue. Yes, it means that it can't be seen elsewhere, but on AnOther.

I know, Tilda Swinton might be in the limelight of the shoot now, but in my eyes, the pieces are the diamonds. Amazing diamonds.

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Absynthe Never Looked This Good.

Especially when it's on Vlada Roslyakova.

Looks like Christian Lacroix really love Vlada.

After having her closing his spring 09 couture with the bridal gown, now he used her for his third fragrance in collaboration with Avon.

But never am I a fragrance wearer, so the excitement of seeing Vlada for Lacroix fragrance ad overwhelms me more that the scent.

Vlada has always been a really high-fashion model to me, with a gorgeous gorgeous signature walk. But in a commercial, really did convinced me that she can do so much more in the industry.

How stunning?! Girl's gonna make us tear up.

Via her thread in tfs

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

A Change Of Mind?

Nothing important, but interesting...

For such an amazing shot for the preview of V magazine, why does it not make the cut for ending up in the pages?

From the preview:

Looks like Nick Knight had a change of mind:
From March British Vogue

Pics from tfs and rock.the.trend

Wonder Ladies Hits Again.

A post I once did, UK Vogue Wonder Ladies, I confessed how much I love the UK Vogue team's interpretation of the "fantasy" theme.

Nonetheless though, Alexandra Shulman do have her hits-and-misses times (last two issues aren't really impressive).
But for the upcoming March issue, my recurring love for UK Vogue came back once again.

Really amazing content and team for this issue. Six editorials, two of which is by Tim Walker, another two by Nick Knight, one my Mario Testino, and last by Patrick Demarchelier. The usuall UK Vogue photographers, but to have all of them together for one issue, how is it not lusting enough?

Additionally, besides the usual styling from the fashion directors, Lucinda Chambers and Kate Phelan, it's great to see Charlotte Stockdale and Miranda Almond back with more work on British Vogue even though they're both in contract with the magazine.
Chocks Away
Lily Donaldson with Jonas Kesseler by Tim Walker, styled by Kate Phelan.

Quintessentially Tim Walker, with the extravagant settings. Loving Phelan's styling by making the Spring 09 pieces looking vintage and World War II era.

Black and White
Anja Rubik by Nick Knight, styled by Charlotte Stockdale.
Really typical Nick Knight's studio shoots, and Charlotte's styling's a little no brainer as compared to her past works. But Anja's energized posing really made the ed interesting.

Fringe Festival
Lily Donaldson by Nick Knight, styled by Kate Phelan.

Another typical Nick Knight's studio shoot. But another signature of the photographer is his love of movements, which really compliments the theme of the ed, fringe.

You might think the obvious collection, Jil Sander for the ed, but not for Phelan. She chose every other collection with fringe, except of Jil Sander, which has been featured in most other magazines. That's why I love Phelan :)

Iron Maiden
Daria Werbowy by Mario Testino, styled by Lucinda Chambers.

My favourite ed of the issue. Daria rocked the shoot, and Testino use of the lighting is really perfect. But the Lucinda definately deserves the cake, as always. Like Shulman, a great supporter of the young designers of London fashion week, she used many of their pieces when not many people are familiar with their names yet. An example, she used one of my favourite collections from LFW, Meadham Kirchhoff pieces.
Go Chambers!

The Snow Queen
Caroline Trentini by Tim Walker, styled by Kate Phelan.

Another great ed by Tim Walker with the wonderful set. Caroline looked so so magical.

Acid Reign
Agyness Deyn by Patrick Demarchelier, styled by Miranda Almond.

Not really fond of this ed, and it's not because of Agyness (I think she rocked it well). Patrick use of the lightings aren't original anymore, and though Miranda bold choice of colours ensembled well, I thought it lacks creativity. But the use of the John Galliano Spring 09 shoes are really a plus point, since I love them so much.

Alright, I'm getting over analyzing again. Sorry :X

All-in-all, four words.

Pics all from tfs

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Couture S/S 09: Armani Prive

Firstly, it's probably the first time that I'm posting about Armani Prive. Cause to me, Giorgio Armani's work for almost all his lines, has been really similar.
But this couture season showed a collection really different from Giorgio's usual work. For this season's Armani Prive, the man had gone Oriental. And if you know me, I'm a sucker for anything Oriental.

Though blazers, pencil skirts, and suits are still the staple of the collection, it's amazing how Armani is still able to exude his inspiration so clearly.
Besides the obvious way of including exotic prints in order to transmit that, cuffs, shoulders, and hem were arched tailored. A real showcase of exquisite craftmanship.Who knew the structural sentiment that has been going on throughout the industy now is able to look as amazing with the incoporation of the Oriental. This collection might just be the most intricately detailed collection from Giorgio Armani. Almost every single look is covered with embroideries of some kind, sequins to jutted "lace" details.

But what Giorgio Armani failed in delivering would have to be his colour palette for the collection. Bold colours used, atypical of Armani, but badly embodied. Inconsistent use of purple paired with yellow pieces are probably the most incoherent looks from the collection.