TraiT

Altuzarra FW2010 VS Tom Ford for Gucci FW2003

2010-02-14T21:23:00.006+08:00

Just an observation, no harm intended. I have nothing but love for these two men (with the obvious fact that both are such eye-candies).

Joseph Altuzarra's Fall Winter 2010:

Tom Ford for Gucci's Fall Winter 2003:

Yes, Tom Ford delivered a wider range for his Gucci collection back then. But the point I'm highlighting here is how similar the flow of both the presentation are. Fur, sex and leather at the beginning, and the closing of floor-length red gowns.

A rip? Maybe, maybe not. You be the judge.

Because I Can Dream

2010-02-03T22:22:00.004+08:00

Like everyone else my age, I'm starting to fantasize how my own future apartment will look like. For me, it's pretty much the "usual". Somewhere high, with a nice nightview, cozy, yada yada.

But I've always dreamt of having plenty of artwork displays all over the house. And by "artwork", I really do mean designer pieces. Now, it would take quite a number of fairies to grant my wish with the following pieces, because some of them are already so rare and so exclusive. But hey, I can dream can I?

So now, "Welcome to my Crib!"

ANY piece from the collection "Atomic Bomb", Viktor & Rolf's 1998 supposedly debut couture collection.

Hussein Chalayan Spring 2009 closing dresses

Of course, Hussein Chalayan's famous "Table Dress" from Fall 2000

Christian Dior Spring 2007 couture closing piece

Junya Watanabe Fall 2000

......

Snap me out of this, somebody. Tavi? anyone?

Christian Louboutin S/S2010 Press Tour

2009-12-07T22:33:00.001+08:00

His shoes has been literally everywhere nowadays. From the red carpets, to paparazzi shots, to the streets, even to the thousands of rip-offs, I'll be appalled if no one could recognise those red soles. But a press tour last month to the Christian Louboutin store at Takashimaya gave me some new found respect for the shoe designer. It's no longer just about the shoes, it's the attitude.

One corner of the store sits a cool and edgy girl; only shoes with leather and studs defines her

At the other corner witness the bunch of party girls; nothing steals attention better that the glitterings
For the sophisticated, you have the classics

As the tour progressed, some girls proved familiar...

The "maggie" pumps...

...which Victoria Beckham(one of the many celebrities) wore:

And the gold "Pigalle" glittery heels...

...which Sarah Jessica Parker wore on the set of Sex and the City 2 movie:

More facts from Christian Louboutin Spring 2010:

Multiple range featured the mix of exotic leather and prints- pony fur to python leather, to crocodile skin
The introduction of new colours for the classics- focusing on Lavender and Mint green.
The Takashimaya boutique stocked in Jonathan Suanders and Philip Lim's collaborations!

All pictures from Ridhwan Sesapar.

Special thanks to OneSixtyNotePad.

Here Again: British Fashion Awards

2009-11-30T13:36:00.002+08:00

Check the nominees here!

So far, the nominee that I'm most excited with is Meadham Kirchhoff for the Emerging Ready-to-Wear category. Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff has been on my lookout since their first season in fall 2008, but I still felt that the duo deserves more recognition. So I'm delighted that their efforts are paying off, and the British Fashion Council is see that.

TraiT's Letter: In A Comfortable Place

2009-11-17T17:09:00.006+08:00

Yoohoo~~ Anyone still out there?

Well, as obvious as it already is, I'm nowhere near how a discipline blogger should be updating his/her blog. Sincere apologies if you're one of the (very) few who clicks into this little space once in awhile just to find that it's as abandoned as ever.

However, keeping matters in facts, I'm not wasting my ass off time waiting for the enlistment date for my national service (ok, if anyone cares, it's the 11th of Dec *sob*). Yours truly has been keeping his brain-juice working all these time with all the freelance writings through other channels.

After several contributions writing for some of the Spring 2010 collections, I'm now an official writer for the blog of Mykromag! I was truly overjoyed when I learnt that I'll be having my own username and such!

Many of you might already heard about the amazing TESTSHOOTGALLERY due to the multiple mentions all over the local Internet websites. I'm also pleased to announce that my first writing contribution for the online fashion gallery is up! Show your support alright?!

All the contributions aside, I am not willing to give up my little TraiT. He (or maybe she, who knows?) had went through so much with my venting of fashion thoughts that I couldn't had done in real-life. There are quite a number of exciting posts at draft in the dashboard now, but am just taking my own Bingboompia time to craft them up.

Look, my point is, I'm finding myself in such a comfortable place right now. I got to know so many more helpful fashion people, that the "fashion-ally trapped" feeling I used to have is fading; which also explains the lesser venting into TraiT means lesser posts. TraiT has never been a blog for me to earn, gain, and attract recognition from the very first day counting anyway. So I just wish that you (few) readers still enjoys TraiT as much as I do *and with that, I'm looking at you as well nasty anonymous commenter :)*.

Harper’s Bazaar Singapore- Asian Models Embracement

2009-10-25T17:26:00.013+08:00

I remember explicitly during my interview for the Harper’s Bazaar Singapore internship (which by the way, Laila, I still owe you a treat! :P), when asked about my opinion about the magazine by fashion features editor, Kim Reyes, I openly stated how much more relatable the magazine will be if it has more Asians being featured on it’s covers.

It seems that my prayers have been answered. Pretty much.

Before I flipped the pages of the August issue with Lucy Liu in Dior on the cover, and overlooking the texts (I hardly read them. If the cover’s good, I’m sold), I was thinking, “Ok, another celebrity cover, typical. But oh well, at least she’s Asian!”
But through the "editor's note" section, from editor-in-chief, Gisele Go, I finally realised that it was an issue dedicated mostly to just Asian Talents! Above all, it was the work of fashion director, Kenneth Goh, editorial featuring Wang Xiao that made me (and still) love that issue so much. Everything- from the location, to the hair, to the make-up, to the styling, to Wang Xiao’s natural sensuality- are all love-at-first-sight.

“Love at first sight” hit me again when the October issue came out. Guess who the cover girl was:

I remember myself double-checking the month and year on the issue just to make sure I’m not holding on to a vintage issue from the 90s or something. Wang Xiao, with the blown-up puffy hair, beauty mark, and the sharp make-up, truly blew me away. This girl, must be having some charm for Kenneth to feature her more than once.

Just recently, in Borders bookstore of Wheelock place, approaching the magazines section, I recalled a little gasp from my diaphragm when I saw some black Asian haired slender figure wearing resort Chanel (Chanel Venice):

Hello there Sheila Sim (also known as Singapore’s very own Natasha Poly), shot along with another model with a gorgeous butt, makes the cover of the November issue.

Now look, correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m almost sure Harper’s Bazaar Singapore had only used Caucasian models for their covers most of the time. Nothing wrong with that, just felt that Asian models has been under-appreciated in the high fashion magazine world for far too long. However, with this recent acknowledgement from Harper’s Bazaar Singapore towards featuring Asian models, I’m feeling more than delighted.

Picture source: Design scene

Preen S/S 2010

2009-10-14T14:36:00.002+08:00

After a few seasons of the hard edged and wild dresses, Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton’s Preen girl for spring 2010 is tangibly walking back to the softer and mellower lines. Not entirely giving up the deconstruction that got themselves celebrity worshipped by, the couple not only gave the girl the usual cut-outs and the vulnerable shoulder straps, patchworks of lace and puffiness (that was last seen from Giambattista Valli) was also pieced into the romantic collection.

Couldn’t get any more evident of a supplely season, out came a yellow and a couple pink sheer draped dresses, as well as a series of grey and white loose translucent blouses. Also in the placid colour palette are beige and nudes that gave the girls that extra body-conscious appeal.

But shaking off the trendy zippers and houndstooth prints, what might seen as a déjà vu this time round are the shoulder pads that pops out once in a while through the show. And just when it seem that nothing could be more abrupt, out came the PVC-glossy pieces which might let their customers re-inquire when they look at their price tags attached.

Photo credit: Fashionologie, Style.com

Yeay!

2009-09-23T04:20:00.003+08:00

I've made a humble contribution for the blog of the amazing Mykromag here!

More fashion week posts coming up there, so do visit alright?!

Thank you so much Dinie(who have been working so hard) for letting write there! :D:D

Spring 2010, Suede Overload?

2009-09-14T04:21:00.005+08:00

Alright, it's just the third (or is it the forth, or even fifth already?) day of NY fashion week, and there have been so much suede thrown to our faces already?!

Joseph Altuzarra

Jeremy Laing

Derek Lam Vivienne Tam

Keep our eyes open guys, S10 trend contender~

New York S/S 2010: Helmut Lang

2009-09-11T22:26:00.006+08:00

The first day of New York Fashion Week usually does not amaze me, and it's not until the early morning of this red dot country that the first group of pictures starts floating around the net. So why am I sacrificing my "beauty" (or "handsome" if I may) sleep just to view collections after collections of designers reinterpreting past season's trends - which is logical since it's still "trendy" even it's already the next season-?

But a lunch with one of my dearest, a short nap, and dinner at my aunt's later, I came to realise that throughout my day, nothing had been stuck in my head except these:

You might question yourself, and the answer from me will definitely be, "Yes, they do look familiar! So old and used!"

However, the only explanation or enlightener for our mercy-less eyes can only be one name, Helmut Lang.

Try a stroll in Helmut Lang's archives, and you'll see the rows and rows of the same drapes and silhouettes staring back at us. The legendary original designer might have resigned five years ago, but the Colovos couple, Michael and Nicole certainly hasn't put Helmut Lang's legacy to shame of any kind since they became the creative directors of the brand when it's resurrected into the fashion scene again in 2008.

So what might seem ordinary now, was actually been shown through the career of Helmut Lang and successors. Could it be time just seem right for the house's aestheticism and blatantly names it "trendy", or is fashion as a whole moving too slowly to appreciate Helmut Lang's eyes for clothing art?

Spotted: SJP @ SATC 2 Set

2009-09-06T21:19:00.002+08:00

Not that I'm a movie buff nor am I one of the billion SATC fans, but am I just not quite expecting a dress as obvious as this would be Patricia's chose for Carrie:

Sure, SJP has that gorgeous yoga-toned body to carry that dress well. But the thought of Carrie Bradshaw would possibly choose this dress out of her walk-in closet just isn't that convincing.

Bring in more of the unwearability in SATC movie one Pat! Fuck the haters (her styling for the actual series isn't that amazing to me anyways), you took that chance, and you should enjoy it!

*Peace*

Rainy Day Humour

2009-09-01T13:04:00.004+08:00

Carrie Fisher:

"I'm one of those rare people who can take a designer dress and make it look like I got it on sale at Ross."

"The common look I got seemed to be one of pity. A look that asked, "Why would someone with her breast size wear something that encourage so much attention? Why didn't she stay home wearing a Snuggie watching the exercise channel and sobbing quietly before crawling into bed to count sheep, like calories, until she fell asleep, perchance to dream of thinner times, outfitted in more appropriate outerwear?""

September UK Harper's Bazaar , an article about her attempt on what they call the "IT" Balmain jacket.

Nice humour Princess Leila! :D

I'm Bitter, But...

2009-08-05T01:49:00.006+08:00

When it's on ZARA, it's time to move on with the trends...

ZARA Fall 09 Campaign

Oh god... Expecting eyeliners-overdone-petite-skinny-blog-shopping girls grabbing the shoulder pads like it's doomsday, when it'll obviously suit the taller and bigger better... (ok, subjective)

It has been around for waaay too long anyway Mr Decarnin, NEXT!

Though I have to say, Toni's rocking the campaign really well ;)

Source: fashin

TraiT's Letter

2009-04-05T15:26:00.002+08:00

If my blog address is still in your blogroll or whatever, thanks alot! Things has been really frantic for the past few weeks. I'm still constantly updated with the going-ons, but am just too tired to start typing.

If anyone out there is still watching this space, I promise, I'll be back soon. (I hope? HAHA!)

Picture from OhJane

TraiT's Top Picks From Fall 09 London Fashion Week

2009-03-07T14:29:00.006+08:00

Ann-Sofie Back "Ann-Sofie Back burns in hell", the theme for her fall 09 show couldn't get any more literal. For the make-up at least. The pieces emits vampires dark aura, but still do quite appeals to me. What a drastic change from her usual girly, soft and sometimes sexy designs.

Really intricate in the details, from the pattern cuts to the torn oversized shirt. Such a genius to show the fairly wearable piece in such dramatic fashion. Styling and make-up are really all straight "A"s.

Danielle Scutt

To me, work from graduates of Central Saint Martins are usually pretty much recognizable. They have this abruptness present in their work. Danielle Scutt's definitely one of them. What I'm specifically talking about are those opening suit pieces with bright red, flames looking details jutting out from the neckline and hems. But as the show progress, She moved into something more futuristic and luxurious.

Erdem

It's undeniable to say that the prints from Erdem Moralioglu are pretty much his signature and instantly recognizable. So consistant for so many season, but still one of a hot favourite of mine.

Louise Goldin

I've stated Louise Goldin as "my girl" multiple times here in TraiT. But when I say that, I really do mean them. Every London fashion week, her show would definitely be the top few that I'll be anticipate. For fall 09, she got a little wearable, which has been consistantly getting more and more obvious through the seasons. But still, her take on futuristic never disappoints me.

Mark Fast

When his first collection was presented during fall 08, his knits and hole details left a deep impression for me. Though not really fall/winter looking, but it's impossible not to be amazed by his attention to details. One amazing Spring collection later, this Fall 09 collection provoke the same questions. To me, this is Mark Fast. Still loving it.

Meadham Kirchhoff

Another top favourite label of mine. Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff always fuse their aesthetics, womenswear and menswear respectively, so extremely well together. And as always, the tearing and metallic armour-rish is still so freaking lusting.

Nathan Jenden

After a disappointing spring 09 collection I found my love back on Nathan Jenden. Though it still doesn't wow me like how fall 08 did, but the paper-looking pieces are incredible!

Peter Pilotto

Another signature-based designer, Peter Pilotto, with another season of colourful, glittery and structural silhouettes.

Vivienne Tam

Not the first time for Hong Kong designer to take inspirations from her asian aesthetics. Not evem when she's presenting for the first time in London.

TraiT's Top Picks From Fall 09 New York Fashion

2009-02-22T23:56:00.007+08:00

Matthew Williamson

In my opinion, the best collection from his own label. Shaking Emilio Pucci off his shoulders proves to be an advantage for the man. His prints are as amazing as always, but what made this collection special and stand out as compared to those from his archives is that this collection seems very coherent. Each pieces grows and evolves from the previous one, really do show an elegant flow.

Preen

The Mulleavy sisters aren't the only designers to sick firmly with their aesthetics, take a look at what Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzibrough brought to the table. For Preen, it's about the tailoring and placement of fabrics. Maybe some prints, maybe some embellishments, but it's the loose silhouette when they first started out in London 13 seasons ago, to today's emphasis on swirly fabric placements that kept their works locked in people's minds.

This season, Justin and Thea exaggerates last season's closing element of a slight bondage mixed with the right amount of softness. But what truly interests me would have to be the closing of the show. Out came dresses that seems to be an animated version of the designer duo's aesthetics in cherry poppy colours that seems to be a statement of optimism, something that most designers in New York missed this season, which is rather important in present time.

Erin Fetherston

Besides from Coke Light, Erin Fetherston might just be another solution for the ease and lightness that I crave whenever I'm dealing with stress. Cheesy it might sound, but it's the perfect timing for me now, and I'm caring no lesser. How delightful it is to see the always girly and dreamy collections from Fetherston?!

After having a very negative review for her previous collection(exclude me please), Erin stuffed their faulty mouth this time with a collection that looks like Luella Bartley's Fall 08 show, but with Erin's own angelic touch to it. Dolly playfulness, yet a little witch spunk.

Phi

When it comes to Andreas Melbostad's works, I've always been amazed by how wearable they look, even if they're heavily rock/biker influenced. Some designers might get too costume-looking, while some might just overlap something that had been done somewhere else.

Andreas's silhouette also seems to be getting tighter and tighter each time round, which really presents his attention to the prints this season really well.

Ohne Titel

With more and more designers using drapes as their signature, indie or commercial, collections might seem repetitive and old. But the draping technique used by Alexa Adams and Flora Gill certainly wouldn't fall into that context. Alexa and Flora paid much attention to the textures as well. The last three looks that I've picked out had the right embodiment of hard textures with soft layer draping that few designers are able to achieve.

AnOther Shows Them Off

2009-02-13T11:24:00.003+08:00

Yes, my dear Louise Goldin. You've proven to the world that you can do as amazing to your usual works when it comes to gowns.

Kudoos to AnOther magazine for using, aside from Goldin, Peter Pilotto, Louise Goldin, Sandra Backlund, Craig Lawrence and Mary Katrantzou, who all made exclusive dresses just for the issue. Yes, it means that it can't be seen elsewhere, but on AnOther.

I know, Tilda Swinton might be in the limelight of the shoot now, but in my eyes, the pieces are the diamonds. Amazing diamonds.

Absynthe Never Looked This Good.

2009-02-08T23:15:00.004+08:00

Especially when it's on Vlada Roslyakova.

Looks like Christian Lacroix really love Vlada.

After having her closing his spring 09 couture with the bridal gown, now he used her for his third fragrance in collaboration with Avon.

But never am I a fragrance wearer, so the excitement of seeing Vlada for Lacroix fragrance ad overwhelms me more that the scent.

Vlada has always been a really high-fashion model to me, with a gorgeous gorgeous signature walk. But in a commercial, really did convinced me that she can do so much more in the industry.

How stunning?! Girl's gonna make us tear up.

Via her thread in tfs

A Change Of Mind?

2009-02-04T18:52:00.004+08:00

Nothing important, but interesting...

For such an amazing shot for the preview of V magazine, why does it not make the cut for ending up in the pages?

From the preview:

Looks like Nick Knight had a change of mind:

From March British Vogue

Pics from tfs and rock.the.trend

Wonder Ladies Hits Again.

2009-02-04T17:18:00.007+08:00

A post I once did, UK Vogue Wonder Ladies, I confessed how much I love the UK Vogue team's interpretation of the "fantasy" theme.

Nonetheless though, Alexandra Shulman do have her hits-and-misses times (last two issues aren't really impressive).

But for the upcoming March issue, my recurring love for UK Vogue came back once again.

Really amazing content and team for this issue. Six editorials, two of which is by Tim Walker, another two by Nick Knight, one my Mario Testino, and last by Patrick Demarchelier. The usuall UK Vogue photographers, but to have all of them together for one issue, how is it not lusting enough?

Additionally, besides the usual styling from the fashion directors, Lucinda Chambers and Kate Phelan, it's great to see Charlotte Stockdale and Miranda Almond back with more work on British Vogue even though they're both in contract with the magazine.

Chocks Away

Lily Donaldson with Jonas Kesseler by Tim Walker, styled by Kate Phelan.

Quintessentially Tim Walker, with the extravagant settings. Loving Phelan's styling by making the Spring 09 pieces looking vintage and World War II era.

Black and White

Anja Rubik by Nick Knight, styled by Charlotte Stockdale.

Really typical Nick Knight's studio shoots, and Charlotte's styling's a little no brainer as compared to her past works. But Anja's energized posing really made the ed interesting.

Fringe Festival

Lily Donaldson by Nick Knight, styled by Kate Phelan.

Another typical Nick Knight's studio shoot. But another signature of the photographer is his love of movements, which really compliments the theme of the ed, fringe.

You might think the obvious collection, Jil Sander for the ed, but not for Phelan. She chose every other collection with fringe, except of Jil Sander, which has been featured in most other magazines. That's why I love Phelan :)

Iron Maiden

Daria Werbowy by Mario Testino, styled by Lucinda Chambers.

My favourite ed of the issue. Daria rocked the shoot, and Testino use of the lighting is really perfect. But the Lucinda definately deserves the cake, as always. Like Shulman, a great supporter of the young designers of London fashion week, she used many of their pieces when not many people are familiar with their names yet. An example, she used one of my favourite collections from LFW, Meadham Kirchhoff pieces.
Go Chambers!

The Snow Queen

Caroline Trentini by Tim Walker, styled by Kate Phelan.

Another great ed by Tim Walker with the wonderful set. Caroline looked so so magical.

Acid Reign

Agyness Deyn by Patrick Demarchelier, styled by Miranda Almond.

Not really fond of this ed, and it's not because of Agyness (I think she rocked it well). Patrick use of the lightings aren't original anymore, and though Miranda bold choice of colours ensembled well, I thought it lacks creativity. But the use of the John Galliano Spring 09 shoes are really a plus point, since I love them so much.

Alright, I'm getting over analyzing again. Sorry :X

All-in-all, four words.

HAVE.TO.GET.IT!

Pics all from tfs

Couture S/S 09: Armani Prive

2009-02-01T21:25:00.004+08:00

Firstly, it's probably the first time that I'm posting about Armani Prive. Cause to me, Giorgio Armani's work for almost all his lines, has been really similar.
But this couture season showed a collection really different from Giorgio's usual work. For this season's Armani Prive, the man had gone Oriental. And if you know me, I'm a sucker for anything Oriental.

Though blazers, pencil skirts, and suits are still the staple of the collection, it's amazing how Armani is still able to exude his inspiration so clearly.
Besides the obvious way of including exotic prints in order to transmit that, cuffs, shoulders, and hem were arched tailored. A real showcase of exquisite craftmanship.Who knew the structural sentiment that has been going on throughout the industy now is able to look as amazing with the incoporation of the Oriental. This collection might just be the most intricately detailed collection from Giorgio Armani. Almost every single look is covered with embroideries of some kind, sequins to jutted "lace" details.

But what Giorgio Armani failed in delivering would have to be his colour palette for the collection. Bold colours used, atypical of Armani, but badly embodied. Inconsistent use of purple paired with yellow pieces are probably the most incoherent looks from the collection.

Couture S/S 09: Christian Dior

2009-01-27T16:31:00.007+08:00

Finally, here comes the couture season. First up, the always highly anticipated designer, John Galliano for Christian Dior.

Galliano himself, wearing his own John Galliano Homme Fall 09 ensemble.

A collection inspired by paintings from Flemish Old Masters, Van Dyck and Vermeer, you might be able to expect Dutch influences streaming out from all the looks.

To me, Galliano's work for Dior couture NEVER disappoints.

Even if the hems of the first few pieces looks alittle disconstructed with the crumpled satin, or how similar the collection resemble to his past few couture shows execution-wise, or how much prints he added into this couture collection which is something new for the man's aesthetics.

I truely thinks that a designer wouldn't have to come up with collections that are dynamically different from one another every single season just to show how talented they are, even in the context of being a couture collection. Even if obligated, Galliano is way pass the phase.

This collection still managed to look gorgeous and breath-taking, and if that Galliano's ultimate objective, I see no reason not to respect.

Personally, my favourite looks off the collection would have to be the white gowns of 9th,10th & 11th collage. Amazing.

They do reminds me of those vases from the "Ming" era of China, or 18th century Dutch Delft.But Roberto Cavalli had already used that idea for his Fall 05 RTW collection:

Flying Rumours

2009-01-27T13:53:00.003+08:00

After months of speculation, there are words about Olivier Theyskens has officially left Nina Ricci. I love this guy, but I'm not feeling anything at the moment. No shock, no nothing.The reason is that Theyskens had made quite a stur in the industry now, which I think he will find himself SOMEWHERE very soon. Or even better, opening his own label :)

Another rumour, Gareth Pugh for Dior Homme? Reviews of Kris Van Assche hasn't been optimistic since his first collection in fall 08, which I agree. KVA just seems so restrained by the image of Dior Homme Hedi Slimane has created for so long. But back to the topic, I'm afraid it might be the same for Gareth. The young designer needs the freedom to explore.

Posts for Menswear Fashion Week... (Con't)

2009-01-22T22:08:00.007+08:00

Continue to keep a look out at FashionNation, cause instead of the usual designer-by-designer write-ups, it will be capital based. So it would be like "Milan round-up" kinda posts.

Anyway, the posts would be on my personal highlights.

Here's the list of disappointments:

Etro

Now, what is this?

Last season, Kean did a superb job with the exotic vibe throughout the collection. For this season, Kean chose to come up with these prints that looks really tacky and hideous to me. Besides, where are the Paisley prints? Isn't it suppose to be a "Signature print"? No Paisley = Not Etro. Period.

Prada

Alright, I might be getting personal with this, but I just couldn't help but felt disappointed. Maybe I'm too used to the 08 dramas Miuccia has been bombarding us with, be it hit(spring09) or miss(fall08).
Debatable, yes, but I'm feeling studs are very overused now.

Sigh...

On the bright side, in a couple of hours, pictures from the Paris Menswear shows will be slowly popping out. Most probably Yves Saint Laurent would be one of the first, as Stefano Pilati has Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin to shoot Micheal Pitt for the presentation yesterday. And all my top anticipated designers would be presenting soon! Takahiro Miyashita for Number(N)ine, Gaultier, and Yohji.

The wait's killing me!

Pre-fall 09: Christian Lacroix

2009-01-22T01:15:00.003+08:00

A brighter side for the recession? Of course!

First is the long waited inauguration day of Obama, which, no, I'm not going to blog about it after almost every others had comprehensively written about. Let's just see what the new president will do.

The other, would have to be Christian Lacroix for coming out with his first ever cruise collection. Yes, the battle with the credit crunch brought out this pre-fall collection from the gentlemen. But aside from the commercialism of other pre-fall collections, Lacroix managed to stay true to his dynamic aesthetics with a well mix of wearability.

Personally, one of the best pre-fall collections so far. Loving the outerwears especially. Cocktail dresses are really sweet, while the evening looked absolutely elegant, though the last drape gown might seem a little overused by other designers like Haider Ackermann or Donna Karen.

Posts for Menswear Fashion Week...

2009-01-18T04:53:00.005+08:00

Hey guys!

You guys might (or might not) already know, I'm writing menswear posts for Fashion Nation. If you guys notice, it has been quite some time since the last post of mine was posted, due to the ultra busy schedule of ours, Stephie and Dottie for their worklife, and mine for my school work.

But I'm done with a major project now, so I'm having more extra time in my hands right now. And as you know, it's already the Menswear Fashion Week!
So instead of posting here in TraiT like the past, I'll be posting the menswear coverage at Fashion Nation! (I'm doing the Jill Sander and Burberry Prorsum post this very moment!)

So do check out Fashion Nation for the posts alright! CHEERS! :D:D:D

TraiT

Pre-Fall 09: Giambattista Valli

2009-01-18T04:25:00.004+08:00

Whenever you hear the word "Elegance", which designer's name rings in your mind instantly?

Mine, would have to be "Giambattista Valli". A true talent, and am always a fan of the man. He has always been breaking the conventional view on elegance. And by that, I mean Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Elie Saab, amoung others, the big time red carpet gown designers.

Giambattista's able to make a hideous silhouette look gorgeous and feminine. He's able to make really intricate jutted details look soft. That's Giambattista Valli.
But when this season of Pre-fall 09 collection came, not many people handed in their votes for the man. Personally, I think that the whole collection still embodies the aesthetics of Valli. Just that maybe the effort of adding new elements doesn't work that much this time round. See if you can spot what I mean...

Yes (or no), I meant the PRINTS. The obvious prints to be exact. Valli hardly does any prints, even if he does, it's minimal and acting like a camoflage. Much like marble for example.

This collection, Valli experiment with the classic(and dangerous) leopard print, which looked overpowering and timed.

But other than that, this is another classic work from Giambattista Valli. Also loving the puffed cuffs from the pieces.

Pre-Fall 09: Proenza Schouler

2009-01-18T03:54:00.002+08:00

Yes yes yes... I've heard about the PS1 bag like anybody else. But since Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough first introduce their accessories creations for the first time in Spring 09, they have been hugely pushing the attention on them.
That goes the same for their second Pre-Fall collection of Proenza Schouler.

Aren't they lusting?

But of course, how can we leave out the pieces? I've noticed that Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough have a thing for leather and glossy fabrics. Like the python glossy dresses in the last group, aren't they interesting?

Pre-Fall 09: Lanvin

2009-01-18T03:40:00.002+08:00

A few post earlier, I mentioned that Cruise collections tend to look more commercial than the normal ready-to-wear collections. It's normally to fill the racks of the designer's stores in between big seasons with new items to keep things fresh for the customers.

But it seems that that does not apply to Albert Elbaz for his Pre-Fall 09 collection for Lanvin. How amazing these pieces are! So not Cruise collection looking!

Seems like continuing from the previous Fall collection, Elbaz's still into ensembling long gloves with draping dresses, which looked really classy, like in the 50s. Besides the usual focus on the dresses, Elbaz added some suprisingly amazing outerwears, like the first A-line coat in the second collage.

And please let me add this, I would have to say that Elsa's really working that shoot! :D

Pre-Fall 09: Phi

2009-01-17T14:12:00.003+08:00

Looks like 2009 is a good year for Susan Dell, founder of Phi, and it's designer Andreas Melbostad. Coming up with their first resort collection, and followed by a pret-a-porter spring collection with reviews, here comes the house's first Pre-fall collection.

Andreas Melbostad would always have a great mix of corporate-looking with the ease and effortless of how most New York-based designers like their collection to be. A great example, his Spring 08 collection, with the oversized blazers and waistcoats styled with high-cut biker boots, is still locked hard in my mind by how stylish it looked.

And it's undeniable that Andreas's strength lies in tailoring. As reflected from this Pre-fall collection again, you can see yourself on and off work with the pieces.

Though the fur leg-warmers just seem kinda out of place, the collection caught on the fall aesthetics really well with the colour palette.

Pre-Fall 09: Oscar de la Renta

2009-01-15T00:49:00.005+08:00

When it comes to big shows, not many designers is capable in coming close to Oscar de la Renta. The man comes up with at least 50 pieces each season.

Same for this Pre-Fall season, quantitative-wise. Qualitatively speaking, it's pretty much a disappointment. Yes, even from a famous red-carpet designer, the economic issue still managed reflect clearly.

Every single past collection, ODLR would have dramatic closing, with dynamic and over-the-top floor swipping gowns. But this collection, there's clearly no climax, even though he added two gowns incoporated with my favourite element from Spring 09, the side ruffled dresses.

Besides all the above, ODLR seems to get more experimental for this colletion, with the studded boots and leather jackets. I hope Frida Giannnini had nothing to do with these.

Pre-Fall 09: Balenciaga

2009-01-15T00:30:00.004+08:00

I guess, also applicable to Miuccia Prada case, one can never expect what's coming up next from Nicolas Ghesquiere's creative pocket.

For Pre-fall, Ghesquiere seem to have decided to not travel that far ahead of time from Spring 09, and stayed modern.
But Ghesquiere's take on anything can't be anywhere near the conventional. Which is something that I love from the man, alot.

Such varieties. From fur, which consist of coat and gloves, to drop-crotch pants, to different lengths and types of skirts. Matching with the wearability of cruise collections, yet staying true to his avant-garde self.

Though, some of the pieces, I would have to say, are kind of adrupt for the collection. For example, the tweed coat and pensil skirt looks outta place from the collection. Also, some of the pieces reminded me too much of the other designer's works in spring 09, like the fur coat in the forth collage just screams "Gareth Pugh!", while the last dress screams "Giambattista Valli!".

Pre-Fall 09: Emanuel Ungaro

2009-01-15T00:05:00.006+08:00

Till now, not everyone has come to accept Esteban Cortazar's works for Emanuel Ungaro. Personally, the only weak season from him would have to be his Spring 09 collection. His use of colours and execution of various prints just seems confused.

For this Pre-Fall 09 collection, I would have to say that his misuse of colours continues.

His strengths really lies on the outerwear, the drapes, and fabrics. The wrap-blazer in the first collage looks amazing with the foldings from the wrap while the coats, in numerous colours, with the ruffled necklines are really innovative, yet romantic.

Pre-Fall 09: Nina Ricci

2009-01-14T00:32:00.002+08:00

Not official, but I've always think that for cruise seasons, designers would tend to add more wearable pieces to fill up the time gap between pret-a-porter and couture shows, as well as filling up the racks that might be more appealing to their customers.

If this logic applies, Olivier Theyskens surely empitomize it with his latest pre-fall collection for Nina Ricci.
Some of the more unexpected pieces would have to be the leather jackets. SO NOT Theyskens anyone?

Besides the usual use of satin, velvet, and the Victorian floral dresses, I would have to say that the other focal point of the collection would have to be the accessories. It's the first collection ever from Theyskens to show bags. A little too far to see in details, but from what I can see, I think Theyskens should just focus more in apparels.

What Is Style?

2009-01-11T15:48:00.002+08:00

An ensemble on you that simulates imitation?
A personal satisfactory view on "clothes"?
Having an item, or two, that crashes people with envy?

It was just when my friend and I were waiting to cross the road on a Saturday evening in town, two guys in black tees and slim-fit jeans were just at the other end, too, waiting to cross.
It was that latest Stephen Spouse's tribute Vuitton scarf, that caught my eyes. The wind from the dashing cars gave the guy a hard time managing the flying scarf, but when he's settled, something else on his hands caught my eyes again.

A cerulean Birkin.

I'm no expert, but I reckon it's the real thing. At that very point of time, tons of pictures of Victoria Beckham flashed through my mind. You know, Birkins, Louboutins, Antonio Berardi dresses...
That lady's known for her head-to-toe labels. And they aren't some rented shit, they're all hers!

All thanks to my another denial self, which snapped me out off the envious state, I questioned, "Stylish?".

You can drown yourself in superior designers everyday like a Russian editor, everytime you walk out of your house gate. But I would have to say, all it does, is just making you look expensive. A statement that is complimentary, or not, is for you to judge.

For me, it's not.

Your thoughts?

Fall 09 Sao Paulo Fashion Week Schedule

2009-01-10T14:20:00.003+08:00

DOMINGO (18.01)
11h30 - Fause Haten
14h30 - Osklen
17h - Mario Queiroz
19h - Cor
i20h15 - Priscila Darolt
21h30 - Colcci

SEGUNDA (19.01)
11h - Isabela Capeto
15h - Ronaldo Fraga
16h30 - Alexandre Herchcovitch (feminino)
17h30 - Vide Bula
19h - Forum Tufi Duek
20h30 - Do Estilista
21h30 - Lino Villaventura

TERÇA (20.01)
11h - Iódice
13h - Carlota Joakina
15h30 - Patricia Viera
17h - Ellus
18h - Fabia Bercsek
19h - Huis Clos
20h - Triton
21h30 - Cavalera

QUARTA (21.01)
12h - Reinaldo Lourenço
14h30 - Érika Ikezili
16h - OESTÚDIO
17h - 2nd Floor
18h30 - Wilson Ranieri
19h30 - V. Rom
21h15 - Animale

QUINTA (22.01)
15h - Maria Bonita
16h - Simone Nunes
17h - Uma por Raquel Davidowicz
18h - Reserva
19h - Samuel Cirnansck
21h - André Lima

SEXTA (23.01)
14h - Glória Coelho
15h30 - Amapô
17h - Jefferson Kulig
18h - Maria Garcia
19h - Alexandre Herchcovitch (masculino)
20h30 - Neon

Kinda surprised that Alexandre Herchcovitch would be presenting at Sao Paulo. He has been very irregular on the Sao Paulo runway since his move to the major capitals on 1993. For example, he presented there during Spring 2005 and last fall season, which both had a re-presentation in New York with the same collection. This, however, did not happen for other seasons.

Oh well, no reason to compliant. I should be happy that we're able to view the collection earlier. :D

Schedule from tfs

Hype For Menswear Next Week?

2009-01-10T13:23:00.003+08:00

For the up-coming Menswear season, which will start in exactly, a week time, there will be many anticipations going on.

Designers like Tommaso Aquilano & Roberto Rimondi from the new Gianfranco Ferre, Matthew Willamson, Roland Mouret, Christophe Decarnin from Balmain, are starting to venture into the mens market.

Designers who had the history of showing Menswear together with Womenswear like Gareth Pugh and Rick Owens, will be showing the mens line independently for the season.

Antonio Marras, who had been recently appointed as Kenzo's Creative Director (no longer just the womenswear and accessories pret-a-porter designer), will present his first menswear for the house. So expect the airy, the light, and the Alessandro Dell'Aqua-ish.

Besides all those above, I'm still looking forward to the usual designers of Number N(ine), Ann Demeulemeester, John Galliano, Junya Watanabe, and many more...

After the two weeks, it will soon be couture in February. After which, March would welcome the Fall 09 Womenswear. God. Can those designers catch a breath?

(Dreaming...)

2009-01-10T00:59:00.005+08:00

Photographer: Solve Sundsbo

Model: Magdalena Frackowiak

Sheer Long Blouse, Kris Van Assche
Leggings with Jeans Peddings, Meadham Kirchhoff
Shoes, Victor & Rolf
Shoulder Piece, Lluis Corujo Besga

February 09 Vogue Nippon

2009-01-03T04:03:00.004+08:00

Vogue Nippon covers has always been quite a debatable issue, yes I know. But I have to say, their contents has really always been top-notched all the time.

From the february issue's editorials:

Precious Metal

Liya looked ABSOLUTELY FIERCE! Styled by none other than handsome George Cortina. At first I thought it was shot by Nathaniel Goldberg, since it's black and white. Like last month's Freja editorial? But it's in fact, shot by Daniel Jackson, who also likes to do colour-less shoots. Similar, but still amazing work from the talents. Now, take note Hedi.
This would have to be my favourite shot of all, in Alexander Mcqueen S09. LOVE!

Baroque Heart

Magolsia Bela, shot by (surprise!) Katja Rahlwes and styled by Sissy Vian. Not quite sure if this is the first time Katja is working for VN, since she's mostly working with Vogue Paris. People compared her work with Terry Richardson, which I do find a slight similarity. As for styling, Sissy has always been really intelligent with her accessories choices, but for this editorial, she chose diamond jewelries, which is kinda disappointing? Too straight-forward, nothing special.
But would have to give her a hug for choosing some from the Viktor & Rolf S09 collection. As you know, many was disappointed by the virtual runway presentation, and lost interest with the collection as a whole. So yea, kudoos to that.

Alright, I know, I might sound a little too over-analyzed for 2 editorials. Forgive me.

More S/S09 Ad Campaigns Rolling in (P3)

2009-01-02T14:10:00.009+08:00

Bottega Veneta

Emma MacClaren by Larry Sultan.

Looks like Bottega's really experimenting with their photographers. After Anne Leibovitz, Sam Taylor-Wood, Nick Knight and Todd Eberle, Larry Sultan's the photographer for this campaign.

Everything that an ad campaign should be. Simple and straight to the point.

DKNY

Vlada Roslyakova by Mikael Jansson.

Same model and photographer as last season's campaign. Young and bright, with the right amount of sophistication. What DKNY is about, and both Vlada and Mikael's able to catch the right aura.

D&G

Anna Gushina, Ariel Meredith, Cato van Ee, Constance Jablonski, Imogen Morris-Clarke, Tanya Dziahileva, Zuzanna Gregorova by Mario Testino.

One of my most disliked collection from Spring 09 honestly, but I'm somehow feeling better with this ad. Though looked kinda badly photoshopped, but it's able to commercially looks appealing. Well, that's Testino anyway... so...

Chanel

After speculation of who's the mysterious model, with just a shoe ad preview, Heidi Mount eventually is the one who fronts Chanel, shot by Karl Lagerfeld himself.

How surprising? Of course I'm being sarcastic... It's obviously no secret that Heidi's Karl's muse.

But the campaign's still kinda boring for me. It's like, "Show off the bag Heidi!", and that's all. Nothing about the clothes.

Dolce & Gabbana

Karlie Kloss, Caroline Trentini & MariaCarla Boscono by Steven Klein.

Off the blonde dolls girls go, Dolce & Gabbana chose more exotic and spicy girls to replace Lily and Stam for this campaign. But still, I still preferred past campaign's movements. This looks, just posed. Well, it's still too early to say. Maybe klein might do something interesting with that camera? And of course, can't wait for the shots of the last few gowns in the show.

Chloe

Anna Jagodzinska & Toni Grann by Mikael Jansson.

Another one of my most disliked collection, Hannah MacGibbon first collection for Chloe. "Wind in the hair" campaign, nothing special... Love the lightings though, which is in my opinion, one of Jansson's strength.

Fendi

Toni Grann by Karl Lagerfeld.

Thought I would have to say the painting's kinda redundant and down-right random, I think Karl's photography skills here's really brilliant. The angle, the lighting, the shadow, perfect!

Gucci

Natasha Poly, Abbey Lee, and Lily Donaldson, shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.

Natasha's probably the only best thing this campaign has. Sadly. The guy looked lost, lily with the (n)ever-changing expression, and that poor abbey. Always overshadowed by miss donaldson.

Lanvin

Iselin Steiro by Steven Meisel.

So far, much better than last season's ad. And seems like Meisel's changing from last year's blurry image direction to this, can I say story-telling? It's almost like a movie screenshot.

Versace

Kate Moss and Gisele Bundchen by Mario Testino.

Loved the collection, both kate and gisele looked as gorgeous as always. But at the same time, it looked kinda lazy? It's like, find a seaview backdrop, pose, here you go. Oh well... It's testino again.. So... :)

Photo credit:tfs

NEW vs OLD

2008-12-30T21:22:00.010+08:00

For the October issue of Singapore's Haper's Bazaar, Kim Reyes wrote an article called "Labels You Need To Know NOW".

Listed in the article, are how newer designers aesthetics epitomize some of the most well-known and respected designer in the industry now.
Limi Feu was elaborated as "tomorrow's answer to" her father, Yohji Yamamoto. Others listed are Gareth Pugh to Alexander Mcqueen, Chris Benz to Marc Jacobs, Derercuny to Alberta Ferrati, Diana Orving to Sophia Kokosalaki, and more..

Though debatable, I've always think that the best way to discover new designers, in both the case of being avant-garde, or not, is to categorize them into more finite and specific area of design. For example, when you think of Mary Katrantzou , you think of prints. When you think of Sandra Backlund, you think of knits. When you think of Alithia Spuri-Zampetti, you think of Kimonos. This way, you get to understand the identity of the designer in a more dimensional way.

So maybe relating them, with a famous designer, and adding the "tomorrow's answer to" might just be the best way to evaluate?

If that's the case, should I name Yuima Nakazato as "tomorrow's answer to" Hussein Chalayan?

Yuima's Antwerp graduating collection

More S/S09 Ad Campaigns Rolling in (P2)

2008-12-27T14:53:00.005+08:00

Akris

Modeled by Daiane Conterato, shot by Steven Klein.

Yes! Personally, I think Daiane's one of the most underrated models in the industry right now. She might be (unoffically) Isaac Mizrahi's mini muse, or still having a fair share of exposure in shows and all, but I still think that she deserves MORE!

Shot by famous Steven Klein, which is pretty much his style of photography. Straight front, no angles. Not quite sure whether the mirror helped, but I think it would be better if say Fabien Baron were to shoot for the campaign. His F/W 08 Calvin Klein campaign with Suvi was amazing, and might suit this campaign better!

Giorgio Armani

Sasha Pivovarova by Mert & Marc.

Yes, Sasha might not be the Prada girl anymore, but her portfolio's still growing! And how unexpected of her to do Giorgio Armani!

Mert and Marc continued their blurry style from the previous Giorgio campaign, only without colours this time, but still worked wonders!

Prada

Viktoriya Sosonkina, Toni Garrn, Ymre Stiekema, Katrin Thormann, Nimue Smit, Sigrid Agren, and Giedre Dukauskaite by Steven Meisel.

Hands down, one of the most anticipated and talked about campaigns. All the youngest, freshest, newest models in the industry, all in one shot. And looking better on the runway, without the cold sweat and clinching for the trembling models.

And how amazing would it be to be on the usual 2 page spread?! Not wasting a single space, which definitely worth the money. Kudoos Meisel!

Bally

Christy Turlington by Mario Sorrenti.

Nothing special really. Sick of Christy, though I always a fan of Sorrenti.

Pic credit-tfs

"It's The Idea Bingboompia!"

2008-12-26T01:27:00.007+08:00

The FashionRocks event has always just seem tacky to me. Especially recent years. Like how "related" to fashion when Beyonce tribute to Etta James? Or how demoralizing the crowd were when Beth Ditto sang for Christopher Kane last year?

But of course, I do love some of the presention+performances, ALOT! And one of my favourite would have to be this Alexander Mcqueen presentation + Bjork performace of Bachelorette from the album Homogenic. Maybe I'm being a little bias, since I adore Bjork, and my favourite album from her is Homogenic.

(Please forgive her off-tuned first note and occasional screams)

Bjork and Alexander Mcqueen's history goes back since Bjork's Vespertine days, which is around 2001.

Next video was also from the same year's event, 2003, when Robbie Williams performed "Feel" for Versace:

Yes, this would definitely happen when you put Robbie Williams with models, especially Versace models. HAHA! And look closely at Robbie at 1:07! :D:D:D

Changes For Valentino?

2008-12-25T23:13:00.009+08:00

Besides the latest campaign, nothing new might have been productive from the house of Valentino. So before any new collections from the house's latest crop of designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, I really can't help myself but start dreaming about the future for the big label.

And what I meant by future here, means a very, very faaaaar-fetched future.

You might or might not already know that the fresh gradute from Central Saint Martins(CSM), and winner of L'Oréal Professionnel Award 2008, Alithia Spuri-Zampetti, has landed a job on the house of Valentino. She's the first talent from ITS (International Talent Support) to have a job opportunity for Valentino. Normally it's Lanvin, Antonio Marras, or Roberto Cavalli.

What I'm pondering on, is how involved CAN Alithia's ideas be with the new designers, with the note that both Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli has been with Garavani Valentino for years, before poor Alexandra Facchinetti got into the picture.

So as a fresh graduate, and with the recent emphasis and celebrations for young designers, can Alithia Spuri-Zampetti be a little hint for the future of Valentino?

What do you think? Too early to tell?

I'm Sorry, It's Christmas, But...

2008-12-25T16:03:00.002+08:00

Donatella, I love you, I really do. But apparently and evidently, being sophisticated, especially at your age, doesn't appeal to you much.

Eww?

Pre-Fall 09: Missoni

2008-12-24T03:49:00.003+08:00

With my Photoshop application back on, let's get back on the Pre-Fall collections!

When it comes to prints, most probably the label "Missoni" and it's signature geometric prints would comes to mind.
But this pre-fall season, Angela Missoni seems to embrace the aesthetics of her parents in the 70s more than ever. Her past seasons would also consists of plain pieces that seems to work as a balance element to tackle the possibility of prints overloading. This season, however, makes me re-ponder, why would she need to do that?

Besides the red gown in the forth collage, ever single piece is covered in different geometrical prints, including the tights and outerwear, which is one of Angela's stapled items in most collection. Mostly knitted, it gives the prints a softer edge as compared to those of say, on the silky fabrics of the latest pret-a-porter S/S 09, and Fall 05 collections.

This looks, ironically, more subtle and cozy.

From boringly expectable for years since 2002, to kinda an abrupt Japanese influenced for S/S 09 recently, this might be by far, the best collection I've seen from Angela in a long time.

Avant-Garde + Beyonce?

2008-12-24T00:34:00.004+08:00

Beyonce- Diva

Honestly, I have no idea why Gareth Pugh would agree to dress Beyonce. And the first time was already quite a mess. Narrow-minded, or not, I just can't piece both artist together. Maybe I'm too used of Beyonce in Elie Saab or Dolce & Gabbana.

For Roisin Murphy case, I understood and adore her in Gareth. But Beyonce? Hmmm..

Where Where Where?!

2008-12-21T13:37:00.005+08:00

Alright, I'm pissed.

I've been waiting for this December issue of Dazed & Confused for a month now, and it's still nowhere to be found?!

Other magazines are done with their January Issue, and covers of Feburary issues are already popping out.

Come on, ship in faster! So anyone who sees it in stalls, please kindly notify me alright? Deeply deeply DEEPLY appreciated.

Edit: I JUST GOT THE COPY! YEAH! :D:D:D

More S/S09 Ad Campaigns Rolling in

2008-12-19T04:22:00.007+08:00

Sorry for the lack of updates(well, if anyone ever cared), though I'm currently having my holidays now(woohoo!), social life's still quite hectic for me.

More pre-fall collections posts coming up, that's when I re-install my Photoshop application, since I just reformatted my laptop some time ago.

Anyway! Let get back to the title topic. S/S09 Ad campaigns are slowly popping out one-by-one now, and honestly, I'm feeling quite disappointed with what I saw so far.

Prada Homme

Modeled by Louis and Claude Simonon, sons of Paul and Tricia Simonon, the bass player and manager of Punk band The Clash.

Shot by (surprise surprise!) Hedi Slimane.

First of all, let me just say that I have absolutely no freaking idea who the 2 boys are, and secondly, why the hell Hedi?!

It's undoubtable Slimane's getting more recognition nowadays, after those Vogue Homme Nippon and Dazed & Confused editorials. But I really do think that too much of one thing, or in Hedi's case, one signature-turning-boring photography skill, doesn't worth anticipating. Meisel hit right on spot for the past few campaigns, with accurate seize of the collection's mood and character.

With all that aside, why suits? Just when Miuccia added something new to her archives, they chose to stick to the prosaic of primitive menswear. S/S 09 was one of the best menswear collection from Miuccia in a long time, with the slouched silhouettes and interesting fabrics.

Blumarine

Featuring Natasha Poly again, shot by Craig McDean.

Gorgeous collection, magnificent model, crumbled into a awful result by McDean. McDean has always been hitting and missing with his campaigns, so all I gonna say, maybe it's the time or place.

Valentino

Stephanie Seymour by Mert & Marcus.

(Sorry to be a nostalgia cry baby, but it has been disheartening to see the collection from my girl Alexandra Facchinetti. )

Anyway, this would have to be one of the more delightful campaign here. Kudos to Mert and Marcus for being able to come up with such subtle, feminine, elegant work. And of course, well modeled by Stephanie.

Oscar De La Renta

Raquel Zimmerman, shot by Craig McDean.

One of my favourite pieces from the collection, the side ruffled skirt. But I would have to say that the model chose seems a little off to me. See, I would have preferred someone more elegant and classic to face the house of ODLR. Zimmerman just seems too rough to me in a way.

Max Mara

Eniko Mihalik and Lakshmi Menon, shot by Craig McDean(yes, again).

Boring as usual, but love the inclusion of an asian model. Previous season was Hye Park.

Feeling Optimistic Again

2008-12-16T21:59:00.004+08:00

(I know everyone should be jaded by the recurring phrase of "in a time like this", or "in the face of recession we're facing now", but I guess they still can't be avoided much.)

In a time like this, it's either you strink, or you expand. Cut down on your expenses, or try all means to get more liquidity, or simply, and the best option, both.

After Donna Karen cancelling her upcoming DKNY runway presentation show in Febuary, and Consuelo Castiglioni cancelling her Marni upcoming menswear Fall show in January, we might be feeling a little unenthusiastic.
But now, we can have enough reasons to optimized again. Recently, both Matthew Williamson and Gareth Pugh had annouced their expansion to Menswear.

Williamson will be presenting the line during January 2010 (most probably the collection for Fall 2010), while Gareth Pugh will be presenting his nearer, the upcoming Menswear Paris fashion week Fall 09, at the art museum Palais de Tokyo.

Matthew Williamson:

"In menswear, there is a fine line between boring and 'costume,' and I want to hit that sweet spot. It won't be about minimalism, but it also won't be about this for men. I think Dries Van Noten, for example, gets the balance right,"

I would have to agree with him, and am glad that he eulogized Dries Van Noten for his balance. His designs are all very wearble, yet innovative. My favourite Menswear collection from the man would have to be Fall 08. About the "balance" that he mentioned there, designers like Galliano would definitely be more costume-like, while designers like Valentino or D'squared looks pretty much the same every season.

Really can't wait to see the prints and incorporation of them into menswear.

Gareth Pugh:

"It just feels like an organic progression and yes, I am going to be very busy working over Christmas!"

Good news just doesn't end for this young talent doesn't it? What avant-garde ideas will he come up with, especially with the more versatility restricted (conventionally) nature of menswear.

Can't wait!

Longchamp S/S 09 Ad Campaign featuring Kate Moss and Sasha Pivovarova

2008-12-15T23:29:00.003+08:00

Never would I thought that I would see Moss and Sasha together in a shot. But I would have to say that the combination worked really well.

Shot by Mert and Marcus, I'm really impressed by how versatile they are. Their portfolio has a range of glamourous(Vuitton campaigns), to mysterious(Armani campaigns), to haunting (POP editorials), and to this slightly vintage campaign.

Anyway, is it just me, or does sasha looked kinda different here? Maybe it's the hair...

French Vogue Lara

2008-12-14T15:12:00.007+08:00

It was recently annouced that Lara Stone would soon be featured in the february 09 issue of French Vogue, ALL-BY-HERSELF. Yes, the whole issue, 100++ pages of Lara Stone cheekbones and boobs(you should've already been expecting that).
Rumors states that the spread will be modeled after Brigitte Bardot's role in the 1956 film, Et Dieu Créa La Femme("And God Created Woman "), directed by Roger Vadim.

Yeah... Google about that (sorry, blogspot's giving me a hell for uploading pictures.) and you will see how epitomizing lara is for the film.

A scene from the film, which is "considered by some to be one of the most erotic scenes in the history of cinema"(wiki):

It's no secret that Carine loves Lara, since she was the one who re-discovered Lara and gave her those iconic bleached brows. But as much as loving lara myself, delicating the whole issue just on Lara just seems overboard. Oh well, we shall see when the issue's out.

The More We Get Together

2008-12-10T22:21:00.008+08:00

I know nothing about the behind-the-scenes logistics of editorials, NOTHING. But what I do know, is that to come up with an extraordinary editorial, the team behind them are excruciating crucial.

For myself, my favourite pairings of fashion directors and photographers would have to be Kate Phelan with Nick Knight, or with Tim Walker. Kate Phelan's feminine yet fantastical styling really do works wonders in Nick Knight's studio shoots, and Tim Walker's adventurous style outdoor shoots, which both, can be seen in multiple British Vogue editorials.

Another favourite pairing of mine would have to be stylist Olivier Rizzo with photographer Willy Vanderperre. Rizzo's laid-back and sometimes volumized styling harmonize well with Vanderperre's simple shooting style and his requirements of the models giving weird yet effortless poses and facial expressions. Both of them worked together for some Jill Sander's ad campaigns, which work equally well, with the notes of Jill Sander's minimalism aesthetics.

Recently, with Hedi Slimane being much more focused in his photography duties, I think his minimal shooting style complements amazingly with Nicola Formicetti's street-ish and avant-garde styling. Remember F/W Nippon Vogue Homme?

For the up-coming issue of Dazed & Confused January 2009, the pair worked together again for multiple covers. The reason for so many covers? I've no idea, but still, I like it.

This Is What I'm Talking About...

2008-12-10T21:38:00.002+08:00

As I had mentioned previous in the Pre-fall 09 collection for Burberry, I personally think that Eden Clark epitomize the image of Burberry recent autumn aura better.
And here she is again for the S/S 09 campaign together with Lily Donaldson, Alexina Graham and Richard Wyndham.

Shot by Mario Testino, with colours this time, obviously, considering it being a Spring ad campaign. But I'm sorry for still feeling a slight pick on the chest, as Christopher Bailey's recent chilling designs just makes the whole campaign with the green house(?) backdrop seems... wrong.

What you guys think?

In Henry Eyes...

2008-12-10T02:47:00.004+08:00

Honestly (and/or unfortunately), Henry Holland's quirky aesthetics has always intrigues me. I know myself, fashion should also be fun and rule-less.
So after the ever-going buzz about the man's designs, he had recently done some illustrations for some of the big names in fashion, and his all-time muse, Agyness Deyn(no surprises eh?). The only catch, they're all nude. Also, rumors have been spreading on these illustrations will eventually be printed on T-shirts selling through House Of Holland.
Flattering, or not, admit it, they're for mirth and fun.

Agyness Deyn

John Galliano

Karl Lagerfeld

Donatella Versace

But on the other hand, those subjects being illustrated, I have no idea what they'll be thinking, even though they had already approved Henry's creative editorial.

Pre-Fall 09: Zac Posen

2008-12-07T03:16:00.004+08:00

Before someone is able to enlighten me, I'm officially confused by the works of Zac Posen recently.
Anything before S/S 08 was just LOVE.
But when he starts to progressively taking more "risk" from Pre-Fall 08 onwards, things just goes from digestible, to puke-able.
"I'll have to apologies, as I hardly critic a designer's work using such harsh words, but I guess I'm over my limits on Zac Posen. He was one my favourite designers!"

Firstly, let's take a look at his latest Pre-Fall 09 collection:

Yea, tell me about it guys. If you think his S/S 09 was incoherence enough, this pre-fall collection just blew that enough. The elements and colours are inconsistent, from exotic prints, to fringe, to ruffles.

I would rather him to stay safe, do what he does best, and still get (another) rave review. Even if he wants to try some risk, BE READY TO CHALLENGE IT FIRST! Not get drowned by it.

Abbey Lee Kershaw, Face of Flora By Gucci

2008-12-07T02:16:00.004+08:00

I would have to say that girl Abbey Lee's hitting it bigger and bigger each time! After being overshadowed at her previous Gucci Ad campaign and those infamous Rodarte and Alexander Mcqueen mishaps, she had finally found her big break. Walking for Victoria's Secret(let's face it, it's every model's golden pool) and now, fronting for Gucci's new fragrance, Flora by Gucci.

Shot by, of course, Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, which did a much much MUCH better job as compared to their previous and first Gucci fragrance ad, Gucci by Gucci, featuring Natasha, Raquel and Freja.

The next thing to anticipate, is the advertisement, cause honestly, I don't wear any scent. So yea... Besides, the previous ad directed by David Lynch was pretty amazing, so it's worth the anticipation.

2008-12-06T17:33:00.002+08:00

This is so funny!

The following youtube video is for Gemma Ward fans. Yes, we might not see her on the runways anymore, but I'm kinda relieve that she's still working, only this time, for her dream goal. Acting.
This interview is about her movie "The Black Balloon", and somewhere around 1:26, they showed clips of the young and crazy gemma! Look how CUTE she is with that doll face!

Pre-Fall 09: Burberry Prorsum

2008-12-05T17:59:00.011+08:00

I recalled once, there was a discussion between an anonymous reader and myself about how designers kept on repeating the same silhouette or concept for seasons. Personally, I like when designers creates their own style and signature look, much like Roland Mouret, Roksanda Ilincic, Giambattista Valli or Matthew Williamson.

I also do believe that designers has their own period of different inspirations, like Nicolas Ghesquiere's 08 sculptural or Gaultier's 07 military.

But in the case of Christopher Bailey, I'm starting to wonder whether his current obsession with the autumn colour palette with textured coats (mostly trench), slim bell-bottom pants and statement necklace, is getting a little too far.

Pre-fall 09

(modeled by Eden Clark, who personally, embodies the chilling concept of recent Burberry better than Iekeliene stange)

The history of the inspiration was first presented for Pre-fall 08, theoretically, a year ago. That collection was by far, to me, the best out of the "whole bunch". Bailey created some amazing outerwear, back then, that had lots of volumes yet individually versatile.

Pre-fall 08

And it started to repeat itself.

Fall 08

Resort 09

Spring 09

And honestly, it's getting boring for me. Come on Bailey, I know you can do something better, or DIFFERENT!

And So It's Out...

2008-12-04T14:04:00.002+08:00

Louis Vuitton S/S 09 Ad campaign featuring Madonna

Maybe I'm too used to Mert & Marcus's bold and striking colours, that these, shot by Steven Meisel seem a little boring to me. But on the plus side, it's more natural, less photoshop.

And The List Just Kept On Strinking

2008-12-04T02:06:00.003+08:00

From my previous post, we got to know that Marni menswear would be switching from runway shows to presentation showcase.

And now, Donna Karen just annouced that she'll also be backing out her diffusion DKNY line runway show for Fall 09 (looks like PETA's losing another easy target for their show protesting).

Looks like we can only wait till Obama's move to the white house in January for the magical "change".

Walking Marni Men No More

2008-12-02T23:09:00.002+08:00

I was SO thrilled when Balenciaga showed their very first runway show presentation for their menswear S09 in paris, it seemed that menswear has snatched much of the attention it deserved.

But yesterday, Marni had annouced that they would no longer have a runway presentation for their Men's couterpart during Milan fashion week for the Fall 09 show. It would be those boring, motion-less studio presentation.

Oh well...

Thierry Mugler's Back! (Through Sasha Fierce)

2008-11-30T22:40:00.002+08:00

There has been an awesome rumor the past few days across the net about Thierry Mugler's comeback by designing Beyonce's upcoming tour's costumes. I'm not sure whether the news is already comfirmed, but I love Thierry Mugler. So of course I WISH it's true.

Free-time Sunday

2008-11-30T15:27:00.006+08:00

It's been awhile since I last did my own humble styling play:

Jumpsuit with structural hip dress within - Hussein Chalayan S09

Shoe with elaborated shaped heels - John Galliano S09

Clutch - Philip Treacy A/W 08

It's Sunday, have fun and feel light!

Pearl White

2008-11-26T15:19:00.004+08:00

This is Chadd, a senior sales assistant in a Rick Owens boutique found in NYC, which was posted recently by Sea of Shoes which I love.

I have nooooooo idea how the hell this guy got his skin to look THIS pale. It's putting Dita Von Teese to shame don't you think?
Forget about the joke of being related to Marilyn Manson, what do you think of his outfit ensemble? I love it personally. The draping's marvelous, very Rick Owens indeed.

But I would have to say, no doubt it would be intimidating to be served by him don't you agree?

Britsh Fashion Awards: Designer Of The Year Is...

2008-11-26T08:54:00.007+08:00

LUELLA!

See, Luella Bartley's quirky designs had a long history in fashion since 2000, when she got the Elle award's "young designer of the year" for her debut collection called "Daddy, Who Were the Clash?". That was before her presentation move to Milan for one season, and then NYC for 12 seasons. And when she headed back home to London for her S/S 2008 and after, she has been getting awards consistently from her home country. So congrats to her!

For the other nominees that's heading home with the an award is:

Model - Jourdan Dunn

Beating out Agyness Deyn and Lily Donaldson. Am hoping that Lily will get this, but Jourdan had some great exposure for the past few seasons, making records everywhere, so good for her. And good for her to beat out Agyness.

Designer Brand - Jimmy Choo

Won against Agent Provocateur and Paul Smith. Kinda obvious isn't it?

Fashion Creator - Tim Walker

Beating out Pat McGrath and Terry Jones.

Red Carpet Designer - Matthew Williamson

Other nominees includes Giles Deacon and Stella McCartney. Was hoping Giles would win this though... But Matthew's good too.

Menswear Designer - Christopher Bailey for Burberry

Beating out Richard James and Paul Smith. Pual Smith was a tough competition me thinks.

Accessories Designer - Rupert Sanderson

Won against Lara Bohinc and Jonathan Kelsey.

Emerging Talent, Ready-To-Wear - Lousie Goldin

Beating out Felder Felder and Danielle Scutt. "Yeah!" to my girl! I love her and she deserve this! :D

Emerging Talent, Accesories- Nicolas Krikwood

Won against Charlotte Olympia and Anna Vince. Another obvious win.

Balmain Eyeing For The Gents

2008-11-25T23:50:00.004+08:00

Well well well... Looks like there'll be another designer added into the list of anticipation next January for Menswear fashion week.

Balmain has just annouced that they will be adding a menswear line under their umbrella, and will most probably be presented on the runway for Menswear fall 09.
Let's see who the designer would be(still Decarnin?), and what he/she will come up with.

H&M X Matthew Williamson

2008-11-25T18:59:00.004+08:00

What a coincidence!

From my previous post about Pucci heading to the net, it's reported that Matthew Williamson, the previous designer of Emilio Pucci who just presented his last collection for the house near 2 months ago, will be heading for the high-streets.

A collaboration with H&M it is.

Nothing new about high-street companies with designers collaborations. The collection will be up in April next year. So we shall see what exciting exotic prints Matthew will incorporate for H&M, after Rei Kawakubo put on such great hype of polka dots from the CDG X H&M collaboration recently.

Cyber Pucci

2008-11-25T01:29:00.004+08:00

Hmmm... Looks like Natalie Massenet don't quite satisfy Laudomia Pucci with her mega powerful online boutique, Net-a-porter.com. As you guys know, Emilio Pucci's pieces can be found all over net-a-porter.

But it seems that the house needed more.

Emilio Pucci launched it's own official online boutique yesterday, with only one thing in mind, globalization.

It would include the full collection of Spring 09, and extends from swimwear to accessories to pret-a-porter to evening-wear.

Following her father's aesthetics of women's body in motion, and the nature of Pucci's thin and light fabrics, Laudomia Pucci used a ballet dancer to model the online boutique's look-book shots to create the movements in order to stretch Pucci's image through the Internet.

So what you guys think? Internet is definitely a great tool for the global market. But isn't placing every collection online seems a little desperate and cheap?

UK Vogue Wonder Ladies

2008-11-24T21:42:00.006+08:00

You know, the fact that everyone worshipping the fierceness of the Paris Vogue team at the moment isn't something doubtable. Carine, Melanie, Emmanuelle, Geraldine, Marie-Amelie, Delans, you know fashion, you would probably already had their names and/or images of their metallic Balenciaga and Manolo Blahnik for Christopher Kane shoes packed uniformly at the back of your mind.

But all-in-all to me, streetstyles, are just streetstyles.

Look, I do agree that they are incredibly chic and it's great that the whole team gets more limelight in and out the industry now. But at the end of the day, the thing that can truly inspire me, would eventually be, still, the product. Yes, by that, I mean the magazine.

So solely on the magazine, by far, as a pathetic stay-home fashion enthusiast blogger, I think the only version of Vogue that had inspired me the most, would have to be UK Vogue. Yes, I might get some "Boo!" along with this, for the zillion times Kate moss had been on the cover, and umpteen editorials featuring Lily Donaldson and Karen Elson. But what I'm talking about here, is the concept of it's editorials.

They have this extra special essence of dreaminess that other version of Vogue can't seem to touch on. And those are created, styling-wise, by my all time favourite fashion directors of the magazine, Kate Phelan and Lucinda Chambers.

Kate Phelan

Lucinda Chambers

Their styling are very bold and dare I say, young and avant-garde. They would use really bright colours while mixing pieces with things from cheap costume shops, or items that just isn't logical to be named apparels.

Kate Phelan's works are sweeter, softer, and more wearable:
Oct 05

July 06

Jan 07

Dec 08

While Lucinda Chambers are more OTT and playful.

April 97

april 02

July 06

Unknown issue date

Dec 08

How fantastic?! And noticed how ordinary they look? That's probably another favourite character I like about both of them. Same logic as the Mulleavy sisters from Rodarte. They're like the noisy sisters behind you in the grocery store queue.

Talents.

So, which version of Vogue/team is your favourite?

Pics tfs

"Tisci & MCB" anyone?

2008-11-22T16:37:00.005+08:00

No doubt that Riccardo Tisci and MariaCarla Boscone are close friends since... well, as far as I can remember...

But by placing MCB on the invitations for Riccardo Tisci's own capsule collection back during his early Givenchy days, I'm starting to think why the heck are them both still single? Can you still call that "muse"?

Riccardo Tisci A/W 05

Riccardo Tisci S/S 05

Of course. How gorgeous.

pics-tfs

Tom Ford, a Tennis Racket, and 2 Hunky Extras

2008-11-21T00:18:00.002+08:00

On the set of Tom Ford's directorial debut film, "The Single Man":

Of course, Richard Buckley wouldn't mind.

125th Old Coco Chanel

2008-11-20T20:04:00.003+08:00

Talking about placing the familiar "Chanel" label anywhere and everywhere, maybe this would sound more logical.

A tribute to Coco Chanel and her 125th anniversary, Karl Lagerfeld created a series of coins for the icon.

Joking about the current recession period, Karl said,

"There might be less of it, but money can still be beautiful."

Well, when you have Coco Chanel on your coin, using "money" to describe it might just sound disrespectful?

Keep An Eye Out For Them

2008-11-20T11:15:00.009+08:00

"A New Dawn, A New Day", the editorial featuring the latest freshman in the industry. Not a better name to introduce them don't you think.

Craig Lawrence, Yang Du, Antonin Tron, Katie Eary, Annalisa Dunn & Dorothee Hagemann from Copperative Designs, Sandra Backlund, Annika Berger, Alice Kirkpatrick, Jessica Au and Andrea Cammarosano, are the lucky 18 graduated designers from arts and fashion schools from all over London that are featured in the December 08 issue of Dazed & Confused.

Now I hope you guys know why I'm in love with London fashion so much!

The metallic coat from Anotonin Tron I posted about here. And most recently, posted by Susie Bubble here.

Styled by Katie Shillingford, looking young and accessorized with Dr Martens and all stars sneakers, which is much like the style of the young stylist and editor .

Shot by Daniel Sannwald

Models- (Super skinny) Kate Somers & Nathan Sutherlan

Pics- tfs

BagFires: Miroslava Style

2008-11-16T14:00:00.007+08:00

If Carine Roitfeld's all about the shoes, than Miroslava Mikheeva-Duma, fashion editor of Harper's Bazaar Russia would have to be about the BAGS.

Hermes Birkin, Prada croc, YSL II, Chanel 2.55, you name them, the young economist seems to own them all.

It's all glamorous and envious, but I will have to say, handbags in general do takes away the chicness among fashion personnel. To me, IT bags are for flaunting while running errands.

Or maybe I'm too used to them full-handed with phones, notes, invitations, etc, while hastily stomping their 6/ 7/ 8 inch heels between shows to shows during fashion week.

Pics- tfs

God oh God...

2008-11-15T16:40:00.005+08:00

Remember how surprisingly sexy the Vivienne Westwood s09 show was with the exposing bras and swimsuits?

Well, it's rumored that Pamela Anderson would be the face of Vivienne Westwood's S09 campaign. Changes can be delightful, but having Pamela Anderson to front the campaign seems.. well.. a little TOO literal don't you think?

Oh well, we shall wait and see. It might (still) cause some nosebleed, we'll never know.

Photos: style, nymag

Good Causes Never Comes Too Late

2008-11-15T00:08:00.004+08:00

Donatella Versace put up her Spring 09 show in Beijing on thursday night with a charity auction after the show for the Sichuan Benefit. Yes, it's been months since the earthquake had caused the damage, but help is still undeniably needed. A trip to Milan for a behind-the-scenes peek with Donatella (probably the menswear show or Atelier presentation) and Versace designed tableware was auctioned off. God, I would kill for the trip.

Love and kisses to Donatella people!

Shut Up and Let Me Go, HEY!

2008-11-14T22:22:00.001+08:00

There's Nothing Personal, It's All Fashion

2008-11-14T22:10:00.007+08:00

Work at day, social parties at night.

Says who fashion is gonna be easy?

Isn't Zac Posen DASHING?! Silk bow ribbon tie and double blazer layering!

And what's up with the crossed-eyes, Richard Chai?!?! HAHA!

As for Anna Wintour, her coat is of course, from Prada, without a shadow of a doubt.

style

Fabrics Interseason S/S 09

2008-11-14T01:05:00.004+08:00

When Kingdom Of Style posted these pictures from Fabrics Interseason's latest collection, I was blown away by it's ragged, and drape styling techniques.

If you guys know, I'm into loose silhouettes. So these couldn't be anymore applicable.

As ever,

2008-11-12T01:56:00.001+08:00

I'm a sucker for things Oriental. And Sienna Miller's cropped oriental jacket's just love. Nothing else:

Disfunctional

2008-11-11T15:01:00.003+08:00

Wool-socks lives in the snow. Not my yellow socks.

Read in a fashion police blog about "socks-in-sandals = HUGE FASHION CRIME!".

Listen, screw fashion mistakes.

In TraiT, there's no Fashion-crime, criminal, prison, whatever shit.

Finally...

2008-11-09T20:59:00.002+08:00

A short trip to Kinokuniya and got this:

Isn't this what Sundays are for? Long hour sleeps, short town visits, and a whole lot of lazing.

Anyway, being a Fantastic Fashion Fantasy issue, I was already fascinated by it's first half content while flipping through it in the train back home. Yes, FIRST HALF. Alexandra Shulman did a superb job for this issue. Archives way back into the 70s based on the theme amazed me the most.

What a great way to end 2008.

FINALLY!

2008-11-09T02:26:00.003+08:00

After a looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong wait, the Sonia Rykiel S09 show was FINALLY uploaded in youtube.
It's one of my favourite show because:
-It's hands-down, one of the biggest BIGGEST show of the season, as it's Sonia Rykiel's 40th anniversary.
-All the top designers created their own Sonia Rykiel tribute pieces at the end.
-Some of them are in the audience seats.
-All the top models walked.
-Every season, her shows brings smiles, by how lively and joyful they are.

Favourite moments:
- Every Lily & Raquel appearance, especially when she starts singing with the music!
- Irina L appearance. She totally lost it in the show! HAHA!
- All the partying
- The girls bows to the Sonia Rykiel
- Basically, every minute of the show!

It's about time?

2008-11-08T14:11:00.005+08:00

It has always been a Love/Hate relationship for High-street stores to me, honestly. Walking into one of them, is like viewing a collage of the most prominent trends of the season. And by that, I mean Rip-Offs.

Undoubtedly, I gave myself in at times, like my Mulberry Bayswater rip-off bag. But it's the guilt that made me squeeze it in a corner with my Mum's piling mountain of unused bags.

I mean, designers cracked their heads every season to deliver stunning shows, and all these high-street stores do, is get "inspired". Genuine trends are one thing, but incorporating the whole idea, to me, it's way overboard.

But still, designers are one-by-one handing themselves to the growing list of collaborations to these high-street stores, cause simply, they make millions and has a broader target audience.

As you guys know, Alexander Mcqueen would have a capsule collection with Target under his McQ line, which would hit the stores next March. But during his McQ press day recently, guests are greeted by this invitation:

Everyone was assuming a collaboration collection with Topshop, but nope. Mcqueen's "Chopshop" was meant to be a joke about how Topshop regularly used his runway shows ideas for their own, which is really true, honest, and daring.

By "daring", I mean, Topshop has basically an empire! Names like Christopher Kane, Lousie Goldin, Kate moss, and many others were chucked under the retailer's brand, and made millions. Especially, the first 2 designers, whose LFW shows are sponsored by them.

But though being a joke, would that affect Mcqueen's reputation among the high street retailers, especially when he himself is going to work with Target.

Your opinion?

Answered, So Soon?

2008-11-07T23:39:00.003+08:00

Almost a week ago, I confessed how much I anticipate to see a celebrity in this specific Basso & Brooke Spring 09 dress here:

And Thanks to Red Carpet Fashion Awards, I found out that Katy Perry wore the dress at the MTV Europe music awards press conference before the show yesterday:
Never expected to see this one coming, but still pleasant :D

So It's Settled...

2008-11-04T14:25:00.004+08:00

After some bumpy move from Dolce & Gabbana to Versace to Halston, now, Marco Zanini found his way to Rochas, after much debate of who would be the one to revive the fashion house previously head by Olivier Theyskens, which I had previously posted about here.

A single season for Halston cost the Italian designer to gather much mixed reviews. But nonetheless, I really wanna see what he would bring to the house's fall 09 comeback show(well, Zanini's second) next year, especially after how Theyskens scored again and again before the close down of the fashion department of Rochas.

Halston Fall 08 closing look

So Getting It.

2008-11-03T22:26:00.004+08:00

Previews of UK Vogue Dec:

Never would I thought that UK Vogue's able to come up with this amazing editorial, featuring Jourdan Dunn and Lily Donaldson, in some of the most avant-garde and memorable pieces from the last few decades or so. From Galliano to Thierry Mugler, from Mcqueen to Hussein Chalayan.

With the "digging out" of past awesome pieces, it made me wonder does it has something in relations with the Design London Museum featuring Chalayan next year, which I also blogged here.

I certainly do hope so. This might just be a hint of future exhibitions featuring other designer's magnificent works. Just love the idea of "appreciation" from past years.

Pics from Tfs

Four Words

2008-11-02T00:58:00.000+08:00

Heidi Klum
"TOP.THAT.NEXT.YEAR"

Hectic Vacation

2008-11-01T13:21:00.004+08:00

Alright, I might not be as "back in full force" much, which I'm having such great guilt for the past few days. But if you were in my place, with this frantic Final Year Project, I don't think you would be any less uninspired for a post as me.

But of course, I do need my daily dose of fashion through cyberspace. Latest buzz, rumors, red-carpet shows, parties, yes, I'm still constantly updating myself.

And through that, I've noticed that some of the fresh Spring 09 pieces are already slowly popping out on celebrities for the red-carpets and store openings.

So which are the pieces that you would DIE to be seen off runway? For me, I'm still anticipating something from Basso & Brooke Spring 09, specifically, this piece:

It's one of the more toned-down pieces from the show, which is great for the whole "off-the-runway" perception, yet still carries the show factor, and the statements of Basso & Brooke spring 09.

But again, it might be Kinee Diouf's dark dark DARK skin that really contrasted the dress which made it such a stunner.

Peter Som: "Farewell Bill Blass"

2008-10-29T05:02:00.006+08:00

All infused with whole lot of business politics in the industry, designer names flying across labels shouldn't be much of a surprise. Being assigned can be a thing, but making A HIT can be quite another.

Remember these amazing pieces Peter Som did for his debut runway show in Bill Blass in Fall 08?

You might find them familiar, as these are some of the many pieces that graced magazine covers, being featured in editorials and rocking out the red-carpets.

But, you might gonna miss similar pieces(or better) as Peter Som recently announced his departure from Bill Blass. Well, it shouldn't be much of a surprise since there weren't any show from Bill Blass for Spring 09 and people were already speculating Peter Som would wave his graceful goodbye to the house.

Peter Som at the recent Fashion Group International's Gala

No specific reason was out from the man, but I'm pretty sure that there might have some artistic differences between the designer and NexCen Brands Inc., the company owner of the house, since even Anna Wintour couldn't persuade Peter Som to renew his contract.

What a pity, I really liked how well both Peter Som's and the house's reputed aesthetics fused with each other. Well, of course, it is to note that Bill Blass one of the first few houses that he designed for after he graduated from Parsons.

Looks from Peter Som Fall 07 to Spring 09

So who would take over the Bill Blass big name? We shall see...

Short & Sweet Unplanned Black

2008-10-28T00:53:00.005+08:00

Finally, had a short and sweet tea session with the FN girls. Didn't really had some simple tea actually, since we practically had breakfast sets at toastbox, which though, was nice and comforting to counter the chilling (pouring) rain this afternoon.

The girls, are very down-to-earth, funny and relatable as always :D

Had so much fun chat with them, from fashion(of course) to education. From movies to music.
Oh, and coincidentally, we all wore black, unplanned.

more outfit details, go to their blog.

Pictures from Fashion Nation

CUTE!!

2008-10-28T00:46:00.003+08:00

Extremely cute Olivier Theyskens with:

Anne Grauso

Tony Burch

at the American Ballet Theatre's fall season Opening Night Gala sponsored by Nina Ricci.

From style

Awaken

2008-10-26T14:41:00.003+08:00

Sorry for the long absence, well, if anyone really cared... Not deliberately showing emotions, but the number of comments I'm getting is rather... demoralizing. Oh well...

But I'll be back in full force soon, as it's the HOLIDAYS!

Boney Lesson

2008-10-22T09:05:00.004+08:00

November Elle Italia

Just when I thought I had enough of couture editorials, they just gets better and better.

Source tfs

Editorial Deserved

2008-10-22T02:14:00.002+08:00

Tanya Dziahileva in Numero #97

Turning 18(?), why not more provocative.

There aren't many editorials for tanya in the past, and I would say that this S/S 09 season isn't a lucky one for her. So let's hope everything will have a delighting turn from now on.

Quoting Heidi Klum?

2008-10-19T16:55:00.004+08:00

For every male model followers, Danila Polyakov's androgynous look shouldn't be in any difficulty of successfully being injected into our heads with his superb editorial works and runway shows. I can firmly say that he's still my very favourite male model up till now.

But you guys should know Heidi Klum's project runway's quote, and I'm afraid Polyakov's facing the same fate. He was almost everywhere from Fall 07 to Fall 08, but now, he just seemed to vanished from the lens this spring 09 season.

Carlos, Laila, please tell me you guys know where is he? :(

Art X Fashion = Hussein Chalayan

2008-10-19T03:05:00.006+08:00

Remember these dresses from Hussein Chalayan's Spring 09 collection which I had blogged about here??

Well, not practically DRESSES. They are pure ART. And London's Design Museum are officially acknowledging that, by having an exhibition featuring the designer. These amazing creations by Hussein Chalayan, along with other famous past works from the designer like,

The LED dresses from Fall 07,

And architectural pieces from Spring 2000

The exhibition will only start from January 21 to May 17 2009 at the Design Museum, which aren't much of a long wait, though now I'm already excited for some pictures that kind souls over the web would put up when they visit.

Head in Tropics with Bottega Veneta

2008-10-19T02:47:00.004+08:00

How In-te-res-ting~~~
Loving how exotic it looks to match with the earthy collection.
Well, "exotic" for the other parts of the world. Singapore's surrounded by countries with HUGE Tropical landscapes, and it wouldn't be that hard to find ourselves bumping to an article similar to that bag, or the material it's made of.

So lucky Bottega South-East Asians fans.

From style

Behind the Backdrop: Haider Ackermann

2008-10-17T20:24:00.009+08:00

Enough of models, collections, accessories, and anything getting the limelight. Lets talk about the designers, the main group of people that made "Fashion" exist in the very first place.

I'll continue on an array of similar posts about some of my favourite designers. You might have noticed that I'm in love with MANY designers, so this might be a good chance to clearly display them uniformly, because obsessions are sometimes meant to be flaunted!

This post is dedicated to Haider Ackermann. The man who I truly thinks that possesses a perception of his own for fashion. You may know styling, you may know fashion or you may come up with unexpected collections every season, but all in all, it's the subject that makes fashion subjectively good looking. It's what one perceive how fashion should be, how it should be presented. Haider Ackermann couldn't epitomize that better.

His style audibly reflects his designs like a mirror, with multiple loose drapes suffused by street influences.

"It has never been my goal to be an avant-garde designer and it certainly would not reflect my personality. My aesthetics are certainly not revolutionary and eye-catching. It’s more about discreet, muted colours, about searching for a certain luxury of not caring, but also trying to respect and not take away the attention from the woman’s face with clothes or decoration…"

Almost explicitly fanatical on scarves, ragged and the laid-back look, the now 37 young Columbia-born gentlemen might often be mistaken as an artist or Egyptologist when viewed superficially.
But who knows, his creations are now widely acclaimed worldwide since his signature debut in Fall 2002.

A truly inspiration for me. Despite how "late" he started out in fashion, leaving out his internships in John Galliano and being an assistant for Belgian designer Wim Neels, he never stopped striving towards his love for fashion. That was eventually rewarded with the support from Raf Simons, who helped him significantly to penetrate into the grid of fashion.

From how the industry is now filled with the young and fresh talents, it's such a provident reminder that though it's important with a huge part of luck, an equivalent amount of perseverance is also the another core.

Photo credit: Style, the Sartorialist