Paris S/S 09: Anne Valerie Hash

"Effortless" seems to be what every designer/fashionista's heading towards cause trying too hard would just seems too tacky for words sometimes.

Anne Valerie Hash, certainly isn't. Her latest collection seems to concentrate on the thoughtless twist and drape of fabrics which to me, is love. Emanuel Ungaro fall 08 and latest Yigal Azrouel played with the technique too. I'm so in love with this style really.






But there're still pieces showing what Anne Valerie Hash really is as a designer since her first show in 2001, minimal dresses/pieces. Very wearable and feminine white and black satin dresses.

There're some prints too, with blur dyed prints, though they do reminds me much of Erdem fall 08. But it's ok, I'm loving what I see so far.

Paris S/S 09: Balmain

Since Christophe Decarnin relunched Balmain during spring 2007, he had turned the vision of the classic house to what I describe as "glamorous rock".

Lots of blings, lots of wild prints, in short short length. This season, no difference still. But there's more vintage influences if you would have noticed. 70s and 80s colourful beadings and sharp shoulder pads, all in the wrap of more modern takes.

What I'm hating are the chiffon puffed skirt dresses and the last group of similar dresses with trains. It's tackily sexy, an aspect the Decarnin would once in awhile tag himself into, so some reason.

But I'm liking how he included more normal sized models especially when the designs are meant for sexy curves. So take note Max Azria.

Young's Mind

When I first saw this from facehunter, I was almost confident it was from Gareth Pugh(since it's posted yesterday): But a scroll in it's comment box, I found out it's actually from this year's Antwerp Royal Academy show, designer Antonin Tron:

Genius.

Another love other than Central Saint Martins.

Paris S/S 09: Gareth Pugh

How time flies really. From the frantically hectic New York, to the avant-garde London, to the classic and elegant Milan, we're now at the last runway stage of Paris fashion week.

And who to better kick off the week than Gareth Pugh's debut in the capital?

London based Gareth's always known for his outrageous and bold designs since his debut in 2006.

Moving along with his love for the dark and eccentric play with black, most of the pieces were carried with illusions of the silhouette as the colour mimics the logic of shadowing. This technique, though, reminds me much of Chanel fall 08 and Alexander Mcqueen resort 09.

But this season, I actually felt that he had toned-down his vision finitely since back then.

Victorian necklines and details, glossy PVC materials and his usual warrior armor pieces are very dramatic, but as compared to his past seasons, he's much quiet and dawn-back in many ways.

His 2006 shows left me with such an impact with the plays of the balloon-ed and puffed up nylon materials, which inspired other designers like Giles Deacon and Iceberg subsequently.

Oh well...

It's still an interesting show which still matched up with my anticipation, but to exceed all the anticipation would be better no? Sounds greedy, but for Gareth Pugh, "expect the unexpected" would work the best for him.

Pictures from: tfs

Milan S/S 09 Sum-up! : TraiT's Top 5!

1. Gianfranco Ferre Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi's debut for Gianfranco Ferre really did impressed me with the architectural craftmanship of the pieces. And the heels would have to be the next "to-die-for" shoes really. So, LOOK OUT!

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2. Jil Sander

The fringe trend might just seems to be overused for recent 2 seasons, but Raf Simons take on the trend really did brough in such excellent sophistication, which is great as fringe usually smacks you with the attributes of wild.

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3. Salvatore Ferragamo

Being glamorous in the usual well-tailored and high-waist skirts cant be anymore banal. Cristina Ortiz's term for glamorous is top fabrics sew on with buckles in a laid-back and carefree way, which has such luxury aura in an effortless way. Brilliant!

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4. Versace

Relate "skimpy" with Versace no more. These few season, Donatella rolled up the family business with everything that the sophisticated would lust for. Sex appeal's still there, but no as tacky as the 90s. Can't wait for celebrities to be snapped in pictures in them.

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5. Alessandro Dell'Acqua

So light, so soft, so Alessandro Dell'Acqua. Period.

Breath-taking

A stare is all it takes to take my breath away.

Kim Noorda in Givenchy Couture/ Flair It October 2008

From: tfs

Milan S/S 09: Emilio Pucci

Well, what can we say?

All good things comes to an end right?

For his last collection with Emilio Pucci, Matthew Williamson carried on the classic geometric prints of what the house's known for since the 50s.
And with the addition of tropical prints, the show really did end with a positive vibe.

So, as many of you already know, Peter Dundas was appointed as the next designer for the house. Along with the list of Lacroix and Williamson, can he continue the classic print legacy for the house? Lets just wait and see.

Milan S/S 09: Pollini

I would have to say that Massimio Ferretti certainly made a wise decision on bringing in Jonathan Saunders and Nicholas Kirkwood for this season's Pollini. Saunders had an amazing New york show this season, which I failed to post about, and Nicholas's shoes is just undeniably acclaimed throughout the industry.


Both the British designers really do brought in something different from the past seasons, especially under Rifat Ozbek who loves exoticism (like me :D).

What they brought in was in strict format of femininity. The show started with playful and girlish drop-waist dresses in multiple colourful prints, which I really do think of the FN girls somehow. :D

As the show progressed, it gets more sophisticated and contemporary.





At the second last part of the show, satin took over most of the pieces. Flowing halterneck dresses, mini cropped shoulder blazers and neck lines in quilted details.

Such a nice blend of the harder looks with the softer ones.

Milan S/S 09: Alessandro Dell'Acqua

After great disappointment of what he came up with Malo, Alessandro Dell'Acqua revived for me with his own line's latest creations.
(Which is kinda funny how absolutely Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, the previous designers of Malo, are in the opposite.)


Though, I would have to say, I think Spring's the season when Alessandro Dell'Acqua is at his best. Cause subjectively, that when his all-time nude and creamy colour palette seems right and in-place.
But though, this season, the collection seems to leaned more of an essentially fall show, with knits, shades of grey, crumpled high boots, and the highlight of a closing series of black gowns.

With that aside, what I really like about the show would have to be accessorizing. Chunky neck-choke, slightly exotic belts loosely hanging off the waist and some additional hip-wrapping fabrics to create the curves layered over an oversized shirt.





The garments are also intricate in details, with feathers textured underneath a blazer and sitting on a one-shoulder dress, definably glitterly embroidered dresses and skirts and multiple layers of thin sheer fabrics which creates such movements and liquid to the pieces.

Milan S/S 09: Salvatore Ferragamo

I'll have to admit, when I think of jet-setting, Salvatore Ferragamo would be on-top of the list.

And I really do love how Cristina Ortiz is handling Ferragamo after Graeme Black left during 08 spring season. She hardly includes prints, which I pretty much admire.
(Prints to me, subjectively, can be an easy-way-out for designers sometimes. Have a maxi-dress in tartan or leopard print, it might just be the statement of the season.)

Without prints, Cristina Ortiz used a significant amount of buckles for most of the pieces. The use of buckles are really interesting in this collection case as not all are incorporated for functionality. It adds in such chic and urban details from the dresses to jumpsuits.







Yes, the cat print full length dress and the last shocking pink dress aren't much of a love but yea, overall, the collection's really glamourous and jet-setting.