Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Paris S/S 09: Marithe & Francois Girlbaud

I would have to confess, I do sometimes question myself about the days that all I have in my wardrobe is just T-shirts and jeans. Nothing else. Even some of my friends do comment about how they sometimes miss that period.
But I was, honestly, having fun. It's the attitude that you brings with the clothes really. I'm having fun with clothes now, just like the past, even though I do have more variety.

And while viewing Marithe Francois Girlbaud's show do reminds me of the "me" back then. Always so hardcore yet girlish, always so youthful yet uncheesy.








Those laces around the trousers and nylon pants are just items I'm very much lusting over right now. HOW VERSATILE!

Street Couture

When you see couture pieces for streets wear, you know who's got the cake.

Natasha Poly outside Sophia Kokosalaki
Givenchy fall Couture 08





And you certainly got it Natasha, with extra non-fat cream and a strawberry topping :D

Paris S/S 09: Karl Lagerfeld

Yes, fan girls and boys, start screaming all you want. Karl Lagerfeld's out.
Am I glad to say that this season sees the absence of the tailored suits, which has been around since the debut of his own-named label, which is fresh and somewhat surprising.








Moving more into couture-looking pieces with structural silhouettes, especially the last collage, some said they resemble his couture 08 for Chanel, which I do agree.
Another attractive group of pieces would have to be the accessories. Sheer ties really do brings in something fresh and feminine from Karl, yet sticking to his own signature style. Brilliant.
But I would have to agree with Laila that the bag Angela Lindvall hold across her face's downright commercial.

Oh well, he's labelled legendary afterall. You just got to make full use of that iconic status eh? And beside, I would have to wish I'll have a mind like his when I'm at his age.

Structured Street

If you want the "runway to streets" in perfection, these are:

Outside Maison Martin Margiela
Outside Gareth Pugh


From Sartorialist

Paris S/S 09: Sophia Kokosalaki

Many would relate "romantic" with something that Valentino Garavani would come up with, but to me, romance does comes in many different forms.

And Sophia Kokosalaki designs are empitomizing that. Her creations are usually ultra feminine, yet, has a weighty amount of attitude and brawniness in them.

With a more oriental inspired show this season; golden armor plates, metallic, Kokosalaki's indeed the best when it comes to textures. But what's weakening her designs would have to be her colour combinations and coordinations, which is something that always happens for her spring collections.







Nonetheless, it's still a collection with amazing pieces that celebrities would mindlessly trying to grab hold of them, especially the short dresses.

Paris S/S 09: Comme des Garcons

What an embarrassment to mistakenly mix up whether it's AnnD or CDG that collaborated with H&M, and worse, I blogged about it here!
But thanks to Vogueite that reminded me! So from now on, I'll try not to blog at the wee hours! HAHA!


Back to the point, Rei Kawakubo this season's feeling extremely dark. Her focus seems to be on the texture, nothing else, which is kind of surprising for me as her styling's always very much the other main attraction.


Mostly, from the collection, are dresses with her individual textural statement. There's soccer ball patchings, to feather-like, to embroideries, to quilted.










But there are some of the more wearable pieces peeping out from the show like the leather jackets/blazers, skirts, trousers and obviously, the shoes. But are these pieces as statement grounding as her texture? I think it's subjective.

Paris S/S 09: TAO

Tao Kurihara, like Rei and Junya, never fails to deliver their dramatic and wild creations. And what I really like about all of their shows, including Comme des Garcons (which I'll post it later), is that they are all "packaged" in a theme to better show the audience their specific inspirations at that season.


This season, TAO came up with a mix of jockey+girlish with the opening of military inspired blouses paired and the closing of an array of floral prints, which are mostly paired with tight trousers/leggings to give off the archetypal jockey look. A much swift from her previous season as this season is more uniformed and smart, though there's her always favourite play with extreme girly elements.





To top off with the theme, she added tall top hats and her always favourite, chiffon wide skirts.

Paris S/S 09:Ann Demeulemeester

For both menswear and womenswear, one of the designer that I'm also excited about would have to be Ann Demeulemeester. Her indie and rock influenced designs always look so cool.

But somehow, to me, this season seems to be lacking of an obvious theme which makes the imagination rickety and liquid.






Yes, though, I'm lusting every single piece from the show, especially the orange draping dresses. Superbly gorgeous.
But the last group of pieces with those statement necklace does remind me too much of Givenchy. So...

Paris S/S 09: Sharon Wauchob

As feminine as ever, Sharon Wauchob this season found the perfect mix with artistic and wearability.

With minimal colours as usual, Wauchob had her focus on the details and textures of the pieces. With heavy use of the sheer fabrics draping technique, the dresses are very elegant yet had this slight rock edge emitting along.




How genius those feather-like skirts with pockets are?! Admit it, pockets adds in so much points up in functionality wise no?

Paris S/S 09: Junya Watanabe

I would have to say that one of the designer with the most creative mind would have to be Junya Watanabe. I've notice that not a single one of his show would repeat something from his previous show.

This season, it's all about garden. Literally.







Presentation aside, I would have to say that the "bringing back the denim" theme is very brave. Karl Lagerfeld did it for Chanel SS08, but failed. And worst, these are long denim skirts, with chiffon hem. I really don't know how things will go, but for now, I'm still looking at them as excruciating tacky.

But there are still pieces which I loved like the beige blazers and the shoes.