Sunday, February 22, 2009

TraiT's Top Picks From Fall 09 New York Fashion

Matthew Williamson
In my opinion, the best collection from his own label. Shaking Emilio Pucci off his shoulders proves to be an advantage for the man. His prints are as amazing as always, but what made this collection special and stand out as compared to those from his archives is that this collection seems very coherent. Each pieces grows and evolves from the previous one, really do show an elegant flow.
The Mulleavy sisters aren't the only designers to sick firmly with their aesthetics, take a look at what Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzibrough brought to the table. For Preen, it's about the tailoring and placement of fabrics. Maybe some prints, maybe some embellishments, but it's the loose silhouette when they first started out in London 13 seasons ago, to today's emphasis on swirly fabric placements that kept their works locked in people's minds.
This season, Justin and Thea exaggerates last season's closing element of a slight bondage mixed with the right amount of softness. But what truly interests me would have to be the closing of the show. Out came dresses that seems to be an animated version of the designer duo's aesthetics in cherry poppy colours that seems to be a statement of optimism, something that most designers in New York missed this season, which is rather important in present time.

Erin Fetherston
Besides from Coke Light, Erin Fetherston might just be another solution for the ease and lightness that I crave whenever I'm dealing with stress. Cheesy it might sound, but it's the perfect timing for me now, and I'm caring no lesser. How delightful it is to see the always girly and dreamy collections from Fetherston?!
After having a very negative review for her previous collection(exclude me please), Erin stuffed their faulty mouth this time with a collection that looks like Luella Bartley's Fall 08 show, but with Erin's own angelic touch to it. Dolly playfulness, yet a little witch spunk.
When it comes to Andreas Melbostad's works, I've always been amazed by how wearable they look, even if they're heavily rock/biker influenced. Some designers might get too costume-looking, while some might just overlap something that had been done somewhere else.
Andreas's silhouette also seems to be getting tighter and tighter each time round, which really presents his attention to the prints this season really well.

Ohne Titel
With more and more designers using drapes as their signature, indie or commercial, collections might seem repetitive and old. But the draping technique used by Alexa Adams and Flora Gill certainly wouldn't fall into that context. Alexa and Flora paid much attention to the textures as well. The last three looks that I've picked out had the right embodiment of hard textures with soft layer draping that few designers are able to achieve.


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shegallivants said...

I preferred Meadham Kirchhoff's take on the dark, biker look. They've been doing it for much longer, don't you think? But Erin Fetherston was lovely, though I think her tailored pieces were more of note this season, considering that she's eternally repeating the floaty dresses. (Not that they aren't gorgeous as always :))

Shall we link swap? I just started a blog and it's a bit disconcerting to write for non-existent readers.

Trait said...

Hmm... Meadham Kirchoff's more androgynous to me, since Benjamin Kirchoff's a menswear designer to start with. Dark, maybe. But not biker.
Yea, love Erin. She knows what she likes, and delivers them well :)

I would love to swap links with you! But I would certainly not bring in much readers for you though.. HAHA!