Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Couture S/S 09: Christian Dior

Finally, here comes the couture season. First up, the always highly anticipated designer, John Galliano for Christian Dior.

Galliano himself, wearing his own John Galliano Homme Fall 09 ensemble.

A collection inspired by paintings from Flemish Old Masters, Van Dyck and Vermeer, you might be able to expect Dutch influences streaming out from all the looks.

To me, Galliano's work for Dior couture NEVER disappoints.
Even if the hems of the first few pieces looks alittle disconstructed with the crumpled satin, or how similar the collection resemble to his past few couture shows execution-wise, or how much prints he added into this couture collection which is something new for the man's aesthetics.

I truely thinks that a designer wouldn't have to come up with collections that are dynamically different from one another every single season just to show how talented they are, even in the context of being a couture collection. Even if obligated, Galliano is way pass the phase.
This collection still managed to look gorgeous and breath-taking, and if that Galliano's ultimate objective, I see no reason not to respect.

Personally, my favourite looks off the collection would have to be the white gowns of 9th,10th & 11th collage. Amazing.

They do reminds me of those vases from the "Ming" era of China, or 18th century Dutch Delft.But Roberto Cavalli had already used that idea for his Fall 05 RTW collection:

Flying Rumours

  • After months of speculation, there are words about Olivier Theyskens has officially left Nina Ricci. I love this guy, but I'm not feeling anything at the moment. No shock, no nothing.The reason is that Theyskens had made quite a stur in the industry now, which I think he will find himself SOMEWHERE very soon. Or even better, opening his own label :)

  • Another rumour, Gareth Pugh for Dior Homme? Reviews of Kris Van Assche hasn't been optimistic since his first collection in fall 08, which I agree. KVA just seems so restrained by the image of Dior Homme Hedi Slimane has created for so long. But back to the topic, I'm afraid it might be the same for Gareth. The young designer needs the freedom to explore.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Posts for Menswear Fashion Week... (Con't)

Continue to keep a look out at FashionNation, cause instead of the usual designer-by-designer write-ups, it will be capital based. So it would be like "Milan round-up" kinda posts.

Anyway, the posts would be on my personal highlights.
Here's the list of disappointments:

Now, what is this?
Last season, Kean did a superb job with the exotic vibe throughout the collection. For this season, Kean chose to come up with these prints that looks really tacky and hideous to me. Besides, where are the Paisley prints? Isn't it suppose to be a "Signature print"? No Paisley = Not Etro. Period.


Alright, I might be getting personal with this, but I just couldn't help but felt disappointed. Maybe I'm too used to the 08 dramas Miuccia has been bombarding us with, be it hit(spring09) or miss(fall08).
Debatable, yes, but I'm feeling studs are very overused now.
On the bright side, in a couple of hours, pictures from the Paris Menswear shows will be slowly popping out. Most probably Yves Saint Laurent would be one of the first, as Stefano Pilati has Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin to shoot Micheal Pitt for the presentation yesterday. And all my top anticipated designers would be presenting soon! Takahiro Miyashita for Number(N)ine, Gaultier, and Yohji.
The wait's killing me!

Pre-fall 09: Christian Lacroix

A brighter side for the recession? Of course!

First is the long waited inauguration day of Obama, which, no, I'm not going to blog about it after almost every others had comprehensively written about. Let's just see what the new president will do.

The other, would have to be Christian Lacroix for coming out with his first ever cruise collection. Yes, the battle with the credit crunch brought out this pre-fall collection from the gentlemen. But aside from the commercialism of other pre-fall collections, Lacroix managed to stay true to his dynamic aesthetics with a well mix of wearability.

Personally, one of the best pre-fall collections so far. Loving the outerwears especially. Cocktail dresses are really sweet, while the evening looked absolutely elegant, though the last drape gown might seem a little overused by other designers like Haider Ackermann or Donna Karen.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Posts for Menswear Fashion Week...

Hey guys!

You guys might (or might not) already know, I'm writing menswear posts for Fashion Nation. If you guys notice, it has been quite some time since the last post of mine was posted, due to the ultra busy schedule of ours, Stephie and Dottie for their worklife, and mine for my school work.

But I'm done with a major project now, so I'm having more extra time in my hands right now. And as you know, it's already the Menswear Fashion Week!
So instead of posting here in TraiT like the past, I'll be posting the menswear coverage at Fashion Nation! (I'm doing the Jill Sander and Burberry Prorsum post this very moment!)

So do check out Fashion Nation for the posts alright! CHEERS! :D:D:D


Pre-Fall 09: Giambattista Valli

Whenever you hear the word "Elegance", which designer's name rings in your mind instantly?

Mine, would have to be "Giambattista Valli". A true talent, and am always a fan of the man. He has always been breaking the conventional view on elegance. And by that, I mean Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Elie Saab, amoung others, the big time red carpet gown designers.

Giambattista's able to make a hideous silhouette look gorgeous and feminine. He's able to make really intricate jutted details look soft. That's Giambattista Valli.
But when this season of Pre-fall 09 collection came, not many people handed in their votes for the man. Personally, I think that the whole collection still embodies the aesthetics of Valli. Just that maybe the effort of adding new elements doesn't work that much this time round. See if you can spot what I mean...

Yes (or no), I meant the PRINTS. The obvious prints to be exact. Valli hardly does any prints, even if he does, it's minimal and acting like a camoflage. Much like marble for example.
This collection, Valli experiment with the classic(and dangerous) leopard print, which looked overpowering and timed.
But other than that, this is another classic work from Giambattista Valli. Also loving the puffed cuffs from the pieces.

Pre-Fall 09: Proenza Schouler

Yes yes yes... I've heard about the PS1 bag like anybody else. But since Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough first introduce their accessories creations for the first time in Spring 09, they have been hugely pushing the attention on them.
That goes the same for their second Pre-Fall collection of Proenza Schouler.

Aren't they lusting?
But of course, how can we leave out the pieces? I've noticed that Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough have a thing for leather and glossy fabrics. Like the python glossy dresses in the last group, aren't they interesting?

Pre-Fall 09: Lanvin

A few post earlier, I mentioned that Cruise collections tend to look more commercial than the normal ready-to-wear collections. It's normally to fill the racks of the designer's stores in between big seasons with new items to keep things fresh for the customers.

But it seems that that does not apply to Albert Elbaz for his Pre-Fall 09 collection for Lanvin. How amazing these pieces are! So not Cruise collection looking!

Seems like continuing from the previous Fall collection, Elbaz's still into ensembling long gloves with draping dresses, which looked really classy, like in the 50s. Besides the usual focus on the dresses, Elbaz added some suprisingly amazing outerwears, like the first A-line coat in the second collage.
And please let me add this, I would have to say that Elsa's really working that shoot! :D

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Pre-Fall 09: Phi

Looks like 2009 is a good year for Susan Dell, founder of Phi, and it's designer Andreas Melbostad. Coming up with their first resort collection, and followed by a pret-a-porter spring collection with reviews, here comes the house's first Pre-fall collection.

Andreas Melbostad would always have a great mix of corporate-looking with the ease and effortless of how most New York-based designers like their collection to be. A great example, his Spring 08 collection, with the oversized blazers and waistcoats styled with high-cut biker boots, is still locked hard in my mind by how stylish it looked.

And it's undeniable that Andreas's strength lies in tailoring. As reflected from this Pre-fall collection again, you can see yourself on and off work with the pieces.

Though the fur leg-warmers just seem kinda out of place, the collection caught on the fall aesthetics really well with the colour palette.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Pre-Fall 09: Oscar de la Renta

When it comes to big shows, not many designers is capable in coming close to Oscar de la Renta. The man comes up with at least 50 pieces each season.

Same for this Pre-Fall season, quantitative-wise. Qualitatively speaking, it's pretty much a disappointment. Yes, even from a famous red-carpet designer, the economic issue still managed reflect clearly.

Every single past collection, ODLR would have dramatic closing, with dynamic and over-the-top floor swipping gowns. But this collection, there's clearly no climax, even though he added two gowns incoporated with my favourite element from Spring 09, the side ruffled dresses.

Besides all the above, ODLR seems to get more experimental for this colletion, with the studded boots and leather jackets. I hope Frida Giannnini had nothing to do with these.